AMSOIL synthetic
Highhat,
That would depend upon the temperature at which you are using the engine. At 40°F or above, I would suggest 10W30 for daily driving or 20W50 High Performance under high heat and load use (racing).
Between -20°F and 80°F, 10W30 but avoid heavy loads, like constant racing. With regular use below -20°F, you might want to consider 5W30.
That should satisfy the GM recommendations and protect your engine very well. The apparently higher viscosity numbers at low temperatures are a little misleading, since synthetics typically pump, flow, and lubricate at much lower temperatures than a mineral oil with the same viscosity rating numbers. 10W30 Mobil 1 synthetic will pump, flow, and lubricate adequately at -49°F, and 15W50 Mobil 1 pumps at -38°F. Try to find a mineral oil with that performance, and it won't have a 10W or 15W cold rating. It's a new game.
That would depend upon the temperature at which you are using the engine. At 40°F or above, I would suggest 10W30 for daily driving or 20W50 High Performance under high heat and load use (racing).
Between -20°F and 80°F, 10W30 but avoid heavy loads, like constant racing. With regular use below -20°F, you might want to consider 5W30.
That should satisfy the GM recommendations and protect your engine very well. The apparently higher viscosity numbers at low temperatures are a little misleading, since synthetics typically pump, flow, and lubricate at much lower temperatures than a mineral oil with the same viscosity rating numbers. 10W30 Mobil 1 synthetic will pump, flow, and lubricate adequately at -49°F, and 15W50 Mobil 1 pumps at -38°F. Try to find a mineral oil with that performance, and it won't have a 10W or 15W cold rating. It's a new game.
I live in Texas and it will be plenty warm for a while. Can I use the case of 5W-30 Mobil 1 (that I have sitting around) in my 91 LB9 with 20,000 miles? What drawbacks would there be to doing this?
Personally, I'd save it for November and get the 15W50 for summer heat, but my engine is almost "worn out" at 47,000 by comparison. 20,000 in twelve years? Don't you ever let it sit, or do you just drive constantly? At that rate, it will be ready for the scrap heap in 80 years or so...
Originally posted by Vader
Personally, I'd save it for November and get the 15W50 for summer heat, but my engine is almost "worn out" at 47,000 by comparison. 20,000 in twelve years? Don't you ever let it sit, or do you just drive constantly? At that rate, it will be ready for the scrap heap in 80 years or so...
Personally, I'd save it for November and get the 15W50 for summer heat, but my engine is almost "worn out" at 47,000 by comparison. 20,000 in twelve years? Don't you ever let it sit, or do you just drive constantly? At that rate, it will be ready for the scrap heap in 80 years or so...
Since I have been modding it when I haven't been studying for the past seven months, I've only put another 4,000 miles on it since I bought it last fall. It just may live to be 80 at this rate!
Thanks for the oil advice.
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by rezinn
I would not put synthetic oil in an engine with 152k miles on it unless it was rebuilt sometime recently. You're likely to develop oil leaks.
I would not put synthetic oil in an engine with 152k miles on it unless it was rebuilt sometime recently. You're likely to develop oil leaks.
Originally posted by cort351w
I bought the car from a guy in Flint, Michigan. It was his "summer car." ... I don't doubt that he was telling the truth when he said that he stored it winters and only drove it sometimes in the summers...
I bought the car from a guy in Flint, Michigan. It was his "summer car." ... I don't doubt that he was telling the truth when he said that he stored it winters and only drove it sometimes in the summers...
As for the oil leakage, the newer formulation of Mobil 1 has seal conditioners that can combat the "dried seal leak" syndrome associated with earlier synthetic lubricants. If a leak was there but masked by sludge and varnish, it will appear larger with the synthetic. If it was caused by hardened old seals, it may eventually go away with the newer formulations of Mobil 1. It swells nitrile and EPDM rubber compounds pretty well.
Mark is all over it, though - they could initially get worse.
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