I recently had to drive my ta from FLA to buffalo and right before I get onto the main highway it starts jerking.

the ignition felt like it was cutting out and would only let me go like 40 mph before it would start sputtering again.

I took it to an electrical guy I knew and he replaced the distributor module (accel crap) and the problem was cured.........

now I am home and I have the same problem. since the module was a brand new wells unit I am assuming that there is something else making it go bad. I pulled codes and I got a 42 and a 32. the 32 is a whole nother story (replaced egr, solenoid and am still looking for an egr temp sensor).

As for the 42: I have so far replaced the ESC module (the one the knock sensor connects to and then connects to the dist module with a 4 wire connector) and have an entirely new distributor on the way (it was time for a new one).

I have started the car with the paperclip in the A B terminals in the past once or twice but it has never given me a problem until now (at least a two year gap between the two events). However if this distributor does not work I think I should be looking for a new computer.

UNLESS you guys can tell me of another component that code 42 reffers to that I should check......

Thanks-- I will be here all day (no distributor.....)

 

um ok...

In my chiltons it says that code 42 is the EST. but as far as I know that is the computer right??

I tried it with the new distributor today and I timed it but the damn thing runs like its too retarded. I am at my wits end here so any thoughts on the EST system (how it works, what components are involved) would help.

Thanks

 

Here's a long shot:
Did your buddy smear some heat sink compound to the underside of the ign module?
The module will burn itself up pretty quickly without it.

 

yea they did and the new distributor had the stuff on there when I pulled it out of the box

 

sounds like a fuel pump to me :lala:

 

My wifes celebrity used to do the same thing.It was her fuel pump.

 

Change fuel filter lately?

 

I have tested the fuel pump and I will change the filter now that you guys suggest it.

Only problem I am having now really is that I am having loads of trouble when I set the timing.

Ok, when I set the timing I have to put the factory harness the way it was before I got my accel 300+ ignition. for some reason the timing does not read correctly with it connected and the est wire bypassed.

however when I had it set up like the factory yesterday and tried to time it, the mark started like 15 deg advanced but then as soon as I touched the dist. it jumped down to like 2 deg retarded. I then proceeded to f*ck with the timing for like 5 hours to no avail. I cant figure out why I can set it at what looks like 6 deg btdc and then when I rev the motor at all it stumbles like crazy like its retarded.

when the timing jumps it makes me think I knocked a tooth of my new 300$ distributor (hopefully not -- will check today) but I also broke one of the wires going from the dist to the coil because it was old and I have to get that today before I can continue testing.

thanks for the replys guys I will keep posting to update you

 

ok update

The problem has been reduced down to a timing issue, the distributor and all the modules work great.

the problem is that when I set the timing (est disconnected then start then ground A+B) it runs like its retarded at the suggested timing mark (6deg btdc)

If I twist the distributor and advance it to well above the timing tab altogether (prolly around what would be 20+ deg) the car runs like it should.

bottom line is -- did my balancer move or something?
I turned the engine by hand with the distributor out but I didnt think that would change the relationship between the cam and crank?????

any Ideas as to why the timing is doing this????

thanks again for all the help

 

?

 

I think I will test to verify where TDC is. anyone know how to do this precisely. ??

 

take the spark plug out on cylinder number 1 and put your finger in there. when it feels like its TDC, thats where it is. The quesion normally remains is it combustion TDC or ehaust TDC. You can tell by where the distributor rotor is when its at TDC. Its if its pointed away from the spark plug wire(on the cap) then it is exhaust TDC.

 

Easy way is take a good wrench with a bar on the end and turn on the crank until you see the distrbutor pointer pointing to the number one cylinder. I would probably make a mark on the distributor base circle where the number one plug fires. As it comes around the harmonic balancer should be close to zero. So you should see the timing mark on the balancer. If not it's probably on the exhaust stroke. Make sure the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing tab at 0 degrees pull out the distributor and align it again. I believe your distributor was dropped in way off the mark. Later dude.

 

In the 17 years I've owned my IROC I have never heard of grouning the diagnostic terminal while setting the timing. Just disconnect the EST wire. As far as your balancer goes, it is possible that the outer ring has shifted badly. If you suspect this is the case go to summit and get a balancer cover to bolt between your crank pulley and the balancer. They bolt to the inner part so shift won't affect it


~M~

 

wait -- so no matter how bad the outer ring has shifted on the balancer the boltholes always maintain a specific orientation to TDC???

I guess I should have known this to be true since it is bolted directly to the crank.

 

Get # 1 cyl close to TDC by feeling the press build-up with finger over spark plug hole and bumping starter. You can disconnect the coil wire to prevent it from accidentally starting. Stick an old spark plug into coil wire and lay plug on manifold where it's touching metal. Stick a soda straw in the #1 plug hole, turn eng over with the big bolt on the end of the crank (should pull all the plugs out so you don't over-tighten the big crank bolt, plus it's a lot easier to turn over).
As you turning the eng over slowly, check for when the straw stops moving up. Turn eng back and forth to find exactly where the straw is pushed out the most. That should be pretty close to TDC.

 

I think there is a black and brown wire connector thats close to the heater in the engine bay. Just disconnect the black connector and you should be able to do your base timing. After that just reconnect the connector and then pull the ecm fuse for about30 seconds to reset computer. Later.

 

I did that dude ( read whole post )