In my car ('89 IROC--L98 engine), it looks like it's easy to get too. But then I actually tried fumbling around, trying to get it out, and I can't see any way to get a wrench on it. There's really not enough room for a wrench (from either the top or bottom) to move unless it's at a 90 degree angle, and it can't be becase the exhaust-manifold "shielding" (that thin aluminum plate) is in the way. Any half-standard sized wrench will run into either the wheel well or the steering column. Using a socket would work, except that there's a wire comming out of the sensor. Oh, and I'm actually trying to put a new O2 sensor *in*... I pulled the old one when I had the engine out. But it's the same issue either way.

There looks to be some kind of silvery stuff on the threads--a sealant perhaps? Would I be okay to just hand-tighten it in? (That's how it is right now--haven't turned the engine on yet, though.)

Thanks

 

You have to get a special socket from an auto parts store.

 

That silvery stuff on the threads is antisieze. It's to keep it from "welding" itself to the bung and being a bitch the next time you change it.

I'd say go ahead and get the special socket, although most people will tell you it's not worth the money. More experienced mechanics can pull off a swap without that socket, but for less experienced, you might as well just get the tool and be done with it.

Put it this way, a shop will charge you from $20 to $50 just to R&R the sensor for you if you bring in the part. You could spend that and get the socket, buy lunch for yourself afterwards, and do it for nothing the next time.

 

To reiterate, the goop is anti-seize, you really should get the O2 socket, and if you put about 2 feet of extensions on it you can get the sensor out no problem. Oh yeah, from the top. Took me about 5 minutes.

 

The first time I did it I used the socket, but then I realized that I had wasted my money on it. Every time after, especially after installing headers, it was easier to do with a large wrench.

 

you're fortunate that whoever changed the oxygen sensor previously used antiseize compound. often end up heating the o2 sensor with an acetylene torch to get it out of the manifold.

 

You can also use running the engine for a minute to heat up the O2 sensor. The sensor itself cools down faster than the manifold.