For the last 2 months I've been getting code 32 for the EGR (not very freq. and I thought I'd just wait until winter to fix it). Until recently it was no big deal but I started idling very weak. Then suddenly ... dead... when I was at a light.

It just died (I first thought alt.). But it was hard to start. It would try to start, but just wouldn't turn over.

I heard that a really bad EGR valve (I've seen it referred to as the "UFO looking thing'') can cause bad idling and stalls. Well I reinstalled a new EGR from Autozone and put the washer in the housing (it said to hammer it in with a block so all sides go in flush), but mine went in and started to fall out when I put it on the 2 bolts again.

I then held it on by hand and quickly loaded it onto the bolts, I'm pretty sure it didn't slip. I used no ATV silicone sealant on the washer, and bolted it in.

Now I get the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT instead of check engine. WTF now? Do I need to reinstall? It starts right up and seems to idle strong again, but while driving all pressure seems to just drop out and I cant gas it at all for a few seconds. Is it the EGR again?

Jm

 

When installing the EGR I took the Fan assembly off and ended up ripping a hole in the metal vacuum hose (the accordian looking one) in the process.

I put it on as best I could and the car idled in park for 2 minutes and then I heard all the air escape there and it died. I forced it down harder so no big hole and was able to drive it to AdvanceAuto and get a new hose an put it on. I didn't use a hose clamp on either end (just wedged it in there) b/c I never used one before... it never moves and really doesn't need a clamp.

Anyway, this wont set off the SES light, will it?

Jm

 

Just a quick question....Did you change the EGR itself or the EGR valve? I dont know what kind of setup you have but on certain models there is a valve that is controlled by the ECM. I had a code 32 spit out at me also. I to changed the EGR and still got 32...after actually reading the book a bit further I realized that it was the valve and not the actual EGR. Sometimes the valves get plugged, shorted, or disconnected. Also check your vacuum line to the valve from the Carb/TB also the one from the valve to the EGR. As for that thing you just shoved in to whatever it was you got me there.....I have no idea what you might or might not be talking about. Is that the Black cover for all the wiring? Maybe the tube connecting to the air cleaner?

Anyway.....maybe I helped.....if i didnt my apologies....hehe.....

 

The thing I shoved was the metal vacuum tube that transfers the hot air. It connects to the big plastic piece that attaches to the air filter pan, and runs down to the side near the vaulve cover.

Anyway, I installed the EGR piece that is a small round piece about 3 inches wide that has 1 vacuum tube going to it. There is another little vacuum tube that runs to something else under the EGR piece I replaced.

I replaced this (the EGR VALVE):
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...0&SpecialType=

 

I kept losing compression when I installed the new valve. I rented the Vacuum tester from A.Z. and went to test the little vacuum hoses on the EGR Solenoid and

-snap-


Broke it in half. Since neither Napa, A.Z., or Advance Auto/Kragen make the little plastic hoses I had to go to a junkyard. I found on that was about 6 inches longer than my long hose that broke (the one that connects to the carb., not the shorter one to the EGR valve).

I put this on. Started car. Still seems to die at idle in park, if I gas it when it starts to die it will keep on, but when it sits for like 5 sec. or more it dies and shuts the car on. I now get the Service Engine Soon light as soon as the car is on.

So, now what? I'm about to give up. Don't want to 'cause I always get dicked at all the shops near here.

 

Figured I'd update in case anyone else has the same problem in the future and gets to this tread on a search.

I never found the problem. Took it to a friend of mine's mom&pop shop and he looked at it. Found the problem in 3 hours.

It was a ground wire in the rear that touched the muffler and burnt out. It was making the ECM read the engine temp as a -37 degrees.

When this happens it shorts the car into a code 14 or 15 (the one for engine temp too low) and makes the car shut off in idle. If driving it causes a surge and die every few minutes; in both instances it will immediately cause the SERVICE ENGINE SOON ses light to kick in.

When I fixed the EGR it was working, as was my cooling fan (I was having problems with that too). When he re-grounded the wire the engine got the right temp reading at the ECM (but my dash cluster needle is still off by about 35degrees or so, when I hit 260 red it's really at about 225).

Hope this helps anyone else in the future!

Jm