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Dyno Results... Need help

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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 06:10 PM
  #1  
jfreeman74's Avatar
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Dyno Results... Need help

I just had my car dynoed and I have some question. Check out my sig for dyno results. I am pretty happy with the increases but... These numbers were corrected to 94.6 degrees. That seems a little high. The stock numbers were corrected to 77 degrees. How do I adjust these numbers to 77 degrees? Also, my Air to Fuel Ratio was around 11.8 which I believe should be about 13. ??? How can I raise this? (intake, thottle body??) I have an AFPR and I adjusted it but it didn't make much difference. I change my torgue BIG time. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 07:08 PM
  #2  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
The actual air inlet temperature going into the motor may have been 94.6* this may or may not have been corrected to some fugure on your printout. Your air fuel ratio is rich at 11.8:1
but your air inlet temp is high. Just buy testing on a cooler day
(Cooler more dense air) will lean out your airfuel ratio
at wot. Your wot fuel flow is a fixed program in your EFI computer. The only other way to adjust it is to remap your chip.
Just remember if you optimize it for a hot 94.6* day, you'll be too lean on a 65* day. It won't compensate at full throttle
like it does at part throttle cruise with the O2 sensor.
Being a little rich may not make the most power but it is safe.
Too lean and you will damage the motor.
Another way to lean out the airfuel ratio at WOT and pick up some power to boot, is to increase the airflow of the motor.
Stop playing around. Pull off those heads and intake runners and port them or buy new high flow ones.

Good Luck
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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 09:57 PM
  #3  
jfreeman74's Avatar
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Thanks for the help. Do you know how I can correct my HP and Torque numbers for a 77* day. The actual temp today was about 86* not 94.6*. It may not make that much difference but I want to make sure my two dyno runs are comparable.
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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 10:40 PM
  #4  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
There is a correction formula to correct to different temps.
It is quite involved and you need more than just the temp to do it. Temp , barametric pressure, vapour pressure,
humidity, dew point etc.
Your motor's "inlet temp" may have been higher than the ambient temp.
Therefore the 94.6* reading. The trouble with a chassis dyno is your inlet piping (ram air) will soon become hot soaked
from repeated testing, where-as when you are traveling down the road at 80mph there is much more airflow under the hood to cool things off. This will result in a cooler more dense inlet temp.
more closer to ambient and higher actual hp and a leaner actual
air/fuel ratio.
All this needs to be taken into account when tuning your car.
I would first retest your car with the motor warmed up but with a chilled intake path (dry ice) while observing the actual inlet temps. If you can get that down close to ambient temp,
your test will be more valid. I think you'll see your AFR come around too. Do this before you start messing with th AFR.

If you'd like to see the difference in "inlet temp" as opposed to ambient temp and how it can vary just rig up one of those car electronic thermometers
with the remote sensor. Put the sensor down into the ram air
(cold air inlet) and observe the temp after letting the car sit idling on a hot day. The take the car for a ride down the hyway
and watch the inlet temp drop.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Sep 10, 2002 at 10:54 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2002 | 07:14 AM
  #5  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I believe you are misunderstanding the purpose and meaning of "correction"... you don't apply a correction to a dyno measurement to correct it "to" the actual ambient conditions, you apply it to correct it "from" the conditions. In other words, if you have a "corrected" reading, then the actual measurement has been altered to take into account the conditions under which the engine was tested; and that number you have is not what the car actually did, it's some guess at what it would do under some other, standard, conditions. So, your car probably actually produced some considerably lower output, and once the correction factor was applied, the program gave you the numbers you have. Same for the 77° day: that reading was likely also "corrected" for the conditions at the time. Or, if you go back today, the reading you get will be "corrected" to take into account the conditions today.

In other words, the ambient conditions have a huge effect on the motor's output; the correction attempts to "normalize" the readings, so you can compare ones obtained on 2 different days.
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