need help with 383 stroker
need help with 383 stroker
could someone help me blue print the best bang for the buck 383 stroker. Does the block have to be a 4 bolt main. How much will machinework be? What would bne the best compresion to run, and my edelbrock rpm intake should work should be enough for this motor right? thanks.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
The block does not need to be a 4 bolt block.
The 2 bolt main blocks are more than dependable up to 475+ hp.
It's more important that the dimentions are right.
the block will need some rod clearanceing depending on which rods you use. (pan rail).
The 350 (5.7") rods will need to be clearanced at the rod bolts to clear the camshaft.
The 400 crank will need the main jurnals turned down to 350 size. The factory cast crank is more than durable enough if prepared properly.
If you can have the crank "Iced" (cryonic heat treated) it's is well worth it.
You have some good parts to use like the 041 heads
and rpm intake.
The heads should be gone over and upgraded to 2.02 x1.60 valves and fully ported. With valvetrain upgrades to match your cam choice.
You want a finished cr of 10:1 with cast iron heads and 10.5:1 with alumium heads.
With your 64cc 041 heads you will want to buy a dished piston
with around a 14cc dish volume on a 0 decked block.
Having the block decked will improve the quench action and
improve power and detonation resistance.
A good performace hyd cam will give you the most bang for the buck. Check into Comp cams Extreme energy series, or Crane cam's PowerMax hyd series.
Select the cam based on your intended use and converter stall
and rear gearing. A cam with a duration around 230 to 245 @ .050 will work well on the street with your 041 heads and RPM intake.
The actual cost of the machine work and nessessary balanceing
will depend on the Machine shop you choose.
Discuss this with the actual machine shop and get an estimate.
Should be able to squeeze 425 to 440hp with 450ft/lbs tq
with this combo for around $2500/3000 US.
The 2 bolt main blocks are more than dependable up to 475+ hp.
It's more important that the dimentions are right.
the block will need some rod clearanceing depending on which rods you use. (pan rail).
The 350 (5.7") rods will need to be clearanced at the rod bolts to clear the camshaft.
The 400 crank will need the main jurnals turned down to 350 size. The factory cast crank is more than durable enough if prepared properly.
If you can have the crank "Iced" (cryonic heat treated) it's is well worth it.
You have some good parts to use like the 041 heads
and rpm intake.
The heads should be gone over and upgraded to 2.02 x1.60 valves and fully ported. With valvetrain upgrades to match your cam choice.
You want a finished cr of 10:1 with cast iron heads and 10.5:1 with alumium heads.
With your 64cc 041 heads you will want to buy a dished piston
with around a 14cc dish volume on a 0 decked block.
Having the block decked will improve the quench action and
improve power and detonation resistance.
A good performace hyd cam will give you the most bang for the buck. Check into Comp cams Extreme energy series, or Crane cam's PowerMax hyd series.
Select the cam based on your intended use and converter stall
and rear gearing. A cam with a duration around 230 to 245 @ .050 will work well on the street with your 041 heads and RPM intake.
The actual cost of the machine work and nessessary balanceing
will depend on the Machine shop you choose.
Discuss this with the actual machine shop and get an estimate.
Should be able to squeeze 425 to 440hp with 450ft/lbs tq
with this combo for around $2500/3000 US.
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