Ok all the tranny bolts and motor mounts are disconnected, all the wiring harness and grounds also. My question is....when I start to remove the engine is there anything else that must be removed?

 

exhaust, fuel, coolent lines, vacuum lines, distributor ought to be removed

 

might be a smart idea to pull the radiator and fan assembly out, so ya dont smash it

 

The power stearing pump and ac must be put on the side u can lay them there or bungie them.

 

sorry i didnt elborate more before, I do not have AC, power steering pump is already out. the front brackets, water pump, intake, heads, cam, timing chain, radiator is out..basically i just have a block with internals sitting there.

 

uh isntit easier to remo=ve with the intake on???

 

I have the TBI intake so those adapters wouldnt work. I was gonna lift it from each corner using the head bolts

 

Transmission lines, they might be clipped to the side of the oilpan and will cause a bit of frustration when trying to remove the engine.

 

you can use the head bolt holes, but DO NOT use the long headbolts, find something shorter, you'll be sorry is one of the long ones decides to snap while the engine is hanging over the front of the car

 

i know u said u took out the tranny bolts but did u take out the torque converter/flexplate bolts out?

 

No i didnt spart...gald to said something. Can i get to those from underneath with the flywheel cover off? Ill check the tranny lines to to make sure...this is the kind of stuff i was wondering about.

 

Yes you can, you'll need to turn the engine to get all of them.

 

how can I go about turning the motor? I have no pullies or anything on it right now.

 

The best way is to get a special plate that bolts in the place of the crank pulley and has provisions to connect a 1/2" drive ratchet/breaker bar. I know Eastwood sells them and Summit sells a "crank socket" that goes over the crank snout and fits the woodruf key in it.

 

The crank socket is the way to go. Everybody that works on one of these motors should have one.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the damper bolt to turn the motor!!! You risk destroying the threads in the crank or breaking off the bolt in the crank snout, either of which just adds unnecessary expense and work to your project.

Use a couple of short 7/16" bolts in like a left rear outer row and a right front outer row head bolt hole. Use a bolt that you can snug the chain or hook or whatever you're using up against the block; don't leave any exposed bolt outside the block, that's how you can break or strip them.

 

if the engine moves freely u might be able to move the flywheel by hand from underneath.

 

with no compression (no plugs n stuff) these engines turn quite easily.. i was able to spin my old one by hand by turning the torque converter.. its not the easyiest thing but its not that hard to do.. from the sounds of it your basically ready to pull once u get those few bolts out..sounds like u went a little excessive with takin stuff apart but that'll probably just make it even easier.. good luck!

 

Yeah I know...the project was first gonna be a cam swap...then it turned to a head swap then I saw the cyclinders and changed my mind towards a motor swap. Oh and i could care less if i strip the threads in the crank or whatever...doesnt matter to me this motor is trash.

Yeah I think its ready to come out when i get those bolts out...oh and having the top of the motor off made it easy to get to the bellhousing bolts

 

yeah but the two in the middle from the top and bottom are still pita's but no to bad.

 

Thats why I removed and installed mine with engine/trans in one piece. That made for a lot less headaches.

 

i just grab a pry bar, put it on the ring geear teeth, find a good leverage point and start turning. it wont harm the teeth