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help with 88 GTA

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Old Oct 30, 2002 | 02:04 AM
  #1  
jcsws6's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
help with 88 GTA

Okay I've been chasing down all my gremlins, but am left with too. first let me say It has a new tune up, everything is within speck (tps, IAC) and fuel pressure is good.
1. When I start the car, it starts right up and then dies, when you start it up again it keeps running but with a little idle hunt. My ideas on this are that it is either a EGR that is stuck open, or a bad cold start switch?

2. Everynow and then, but almost always at night. I get a Check engine light, code 34. My MAF sensor is new, but for some reason the car feels like the tanny is acting up when the light is on. When you lift off the throtle it will feel like a manual tranny that you punch in gear and then lift completely off the throttle. It only does this when the light is on. I'm thinking MAF burn off relay?

please give any input!!
thanks
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Old Oct 31, 2002 | 07:50 AM
  #2  
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JC,

How does the engine run when it finally warms to operating temperature?

If hot operation is O.K., I would tend to think the EGR is not the problem.

The cold start theory is valid, but before you tear down the intake to the fuel rails, test the fuel pressure after the engine has been allowed to cool and before you start it. Let us know what pressure you get, please.

You'll also need to solve the MAF error code. If the MAF is new, recheck the electrical connector at the MAF and the connectors at the power and burn off relays. If you haven't already done so, you can exchange the MAF power and burn off relays to test either one. If the code changes from a '34' to a '36', you may have a relay problem. You could also simply meter the resistance of the relay contacts, and replace either relay if you get more than 0 ohms. Of course, to do that you would need to energize the relay to operate it so you could test the normally open contacts.

You should also closely inspect the air intake ductwork between the MAF and throttle body, and check for any other leaks, including the EGR, PCV, brake booster, and other vacuum lines. Make sure the rubber bellows connecting the TB to the ductwork is completely seated and sealed by the clamp.

Get that far, and let us know what you find.

Last edited by Vader; Oct 31, 2002 at 07:57 AM.
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