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So what does port matching my intake mean?

Old Feb 14, 2003 | 06:31 AM
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Edelbrockified 305
Transmission: 700-R4
So what does port matching my intake mean?

This spring, I'm seriously thinking of getting the heads on my LG4 ported, polished, a three angle valve job, and get them milled as well. Someone told me today that I should get my intake port matched to the heads as well. What would this do for me? I've never heard of this.
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:09 AM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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It means making the intake port be the same as the head port where they fit together, for a smooth transition. The usual way to do it is to match both the head ports and the intake manifold ports to a properly chosen intake gasket.
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:13 AM
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Transmission: 700-R4
Thanks, RB. Got another question, is this excedingly expensive? How much do you think is reasonable to have this done?
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 08:13 AM
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It's not really something you "have done".... you do it yourself.
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 08:24 AM
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
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ah, i see. For some reason I was under the impression that it involved machining the intake to exactly match the heads. I don't know much about this stuff. I should stick to Car Audio.
Thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 08:43 AM
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Well you're right, that's exactly what it is; but you don't do it by bolting the actual parts themselves together and then working on them, you use the gasket as the "measurement method". You lay the gasket on each of the mating surfaces, scribe the outline of the holes, and then grind out the metal to the scribe lines. Not very technical or anything really.
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 09:00 AM
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McFly,

If you're planning on paying someone to port your heads, you might be spending a lot for very little gain. If you invest in a die grinder and do it yourself, the $$/HP ratio will be a lot better.

Considering the hours of work involved in porting, and given customary labor rates, you may be farther ahead applying that cash toward entirely different heads. Even if you don't want aftermarket heads, you're probably better off starting with a better factory casting than what was bolted on the LG4.

And instead of a three-angle valve grind, ask your machinist about a conventional valve grind with a front face radius. You can gain more flow around the edge of the valve than with a multi-angle grind, plus the valve seats will last longer.
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