Rod knocking
JD,
A rod knock can generally be described as a dull knock rather than a sharp ticking. The frequency of the noise obviously varies with engine RPM. The intensity of the noise usually varies with engine load. A loose rod bearing can knock more when cold than when fully warmed, but the change in oil viscosity can skew those indications. Cold, thick oil can help mask the noise at idle, while not doing much to help it under load. A warmer, thinned oil might make a little more noise at idle, but the change under load may not be as drastic.
A rod noise can generally be heard equally well from either side of the engine, or beneath the vehicle, although the oil in the pan may subdue the sound a bit it you are listening right at the pan. A stethoscope placed at the flanges of the block then moved from front to rear can help identify and isolate the offending rod/main bearing noise.
I've had noisy main/rod berings (more often mains) that were due to poor oil delivery on neglected engines. A hot/high idle flush with ATF in the oil, and a change to an appropriate viscosity oil can make the noise disappear by removing sludge and varnish from the oil passages, allowing oil to flow to the bearings properly. I've been able to "save" them more than once by doing this, but have to be concerned about accelerated wear on the bearings that were starved for oil in the interim.
A rod knock can generally be described as a dull knock rather than a sharp ticking. The frequency of the noise obviously varies with engine RPM. The intensity of the noise usually varies with engine load. A loose rod bearing can knock more when cold than when fully warmed, but the change in oil viscosity can skew those indications. Cold, thick oil can help mask the noise at idle, while not doing much to help it under load. A warmer, thinned oil might make a little more noise at idle, but the change under load may not be as drastic.
A rod noise can generally be heard equally well from either side of the engine, or beneath the vehicle, although the oil in the pan may subdue the sound a bit it you are listening right at the pan. A stethoscope placed at the flanges of the block then moved from front to rear can help identify and isolate the offending rod/main bearing noise.
I've had noisy main/rod berings (more often mains) that were due to poor oil delivery on neglected engines. A hot/high idle flush with ATF in the oil, and a change to an appropriate viscosity oil can make the noise disappear by removing sludge and varnish from the oil passages, allowing oil to flow to the bearings properly. I've been able to "save" them more than once by doing this, but have to be concerned about accelerated wear on the bearings that were starved for oil in the interim.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 798
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From: Sharonville OH
Car: 98 Z28 vert
Engine: LS1
Transmission: automagic
Axle/Gears: 2.73 - boo racing yay MPG
might not be the engine. My buddy's camaro ha a knoce but it was something in the rear that was doing it. A loose brake calper can make knocking sounds too. If it only happens when you press the brakes then it is most likely that one of the screws that hold the brake calaper on falleded off.
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