are doors the same for power window and manaul window cars?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
are doors the same for power window and manaul window cars?
are the doors themselves exactly the same? no different mounts or anything? just different regulator and a motor and some wiring or is the door itself different?
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 908
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From: parishville NY upstate
Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42s/posi/disc
yup they are
all u ahve to do is take all the manual stuff out of them and bolt the electrics in place it is pretty easy atleast on chevy truck doors it is ive never done it to an f body yet thow.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You'll see some differences in the door's internal hardware, but the good news is, all the bolt holes are the same.
For instance, my '86 doors were completely rusted out at the bottoms. My parts car, an '84 Firebird, had pretty good doors, but manual windows. I coudn't just swap regulators (manual crank vs power) because the door internals were too different. So I emptied everything out of the '84 door, everything out of my '86 doors, and bolted all my '86 stuff into the '84 doors without a problem.
BUT... if you're going to do this swap, you might want to "think ahead". See if you can buy the "outer belt weatherstripping"- this is the weatherstrip at the base of your window- the one that faces the outside, and usually gets dried up and cracks. Otherwise, you'll have a hell of a time getting to the screws when the door's put back together.
Be forewarned; window alignment is going to be a btch.
I couldn't find the original wide aluminum rivets that Gm used, so I thought I was slick, and bought some normal (thin) rivets from Home Depot, and some rivet washers, and a rivet gun. (Is it rivit or rivet? Whatever.) I put a washer on each side of the hole- one held to the back of the power regulator with a glob of grease, the other one on the outside of the door, held by my finger, stuck a rivet in there, and squeezed the gun handles. Worked good...
...until the slack from a thin rivit being in a large hole was too much for the rivets, and cracked them in half. I could tell there was slop because every time I started to roll the window up or down, the top of the window would tilt a bit.
After the rivets snapped, and left me with a window that was half-sideways, I went and bought bolts. They were small bolts, and "6mm" seems to stick in my head. I bought nuts to fit 'em, and a lockwasher. Used the lockwasher and bolt from the "inside" of the door. Used the nut on the outside. I also coated the threads with loctite red before putting the nut on. Then I tightened the nut; the lockwasher helped prevent the bolt from twisting, so I didn't need a backup wrench.
If those things ever loosen up, I'll be pretty ticked off.
Whew. Hope this helps, good luck!
For instance, my '86 doors were completely rusted out at the bottoms. My parts car, an '84 Firebird, had pretty good doors, but manual windows. I coudn't just swap regulators (manual crank vs power) because the door internals were too different. So I emptied everything out of the '84 door, everything out of my '86 doors, and bolted all my '86 stuff into the '84 doors without a problem.
BUT... if you're going to do this swap, you might want to "think ahead". See if you can buy the "outer belt weatherstripping"- this is the weatherstrip at the base of your window- the one that faces the outside, and usually gets dried up and cracks. Otherwise, you'll have a hell of a time getting to the screws when the door's put back together.
Be forewarned; window alignment is going to be a btch.
I couldn't find the original wide aluminum rivets that Gm used, so I thought I was slick, and bought some normal (thin) rivets from Home Depot, and some rivet washers, and a rivet gun. (Is it rivit or rivet? Whatever.) I put a washer on each side of the hole- one held to the back of the power regulator with a glob of grease, the other one on the outside of the door, held by my finger, stuck a rivet in there, and squeezed the gun handles. Worked good...
...until the slack from a thin rivit being in a large hole was too much for the rivets, and cracked them in half. I could tell there was slop because every time I started to roll the window up or down, the top of the window would tilt a bit.
After the rivets snapped, and left me with a window that was half-sideways, I went and bought bolts. They were small bolts, and "6mm" seems to stick in my head. I bought nuts to fit 'em, and a lockwasher. Used the lockwasher and bolt from the "inside" of the door. Used the nut on the outside. I also coated the threads with loctite red before putting the nut on. Then I tightened the nut; the lockwasher helped prevent the bolt from twisting, so I didn't need a backup wrench.
If those things ever loosen up, I'll be pretty ticked off.

Whew. Hope this helps, good luck!
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Laurel Hill,NC USA
Car: '87 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 TPI/Possible LS1 swap
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
door swap
How about swapping doors. I have '88 Iroc doors would like to put on '88 Formula. The Formula has manual everything and the Iroc doors has electric everything. Are they interchangeable. How hard to run wire for switches.
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