Do you have that in writing from Mazda?

If they recommend SAE/API rated oil, and the synthetic meets the stated SAE and API ratings, then they cannot prohibit its use.

 

not directly from Mazda. it came from the Mobile1 website from there myth/fact page. it said exactly

Myth:Using Mobil 1 will void my new-car warranty.
Fact:With the exception of the Mazda rotary engine (Mazda does not recommend any synthetic motor oils), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ will not void new-car warranties. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ exceeds the API and ILSAC motor oil service requirements of all new-car manufacturers, both import and domestic. If in doubt, always check your vehicle owner's manual or contact your vehicle's manufacturer.

 

If you read above, you'll understand why I don't use synthetic. Well, forget that, with you bone heads here, you won't understand--J/K. Anyways, 5 quarts of oil and a filter aren't that much, do the math. Sure with synthetic, you can wait longer, but you're not getting anywhere unless you change the filter sooner than 6,000 miles. -89IRO

 

reason it came about it when syn oil first came out it didn't burn clean and left deposits inside the chamber

on the apex seals (kinda like your piston rings) they have a groove that they move in
the rotary injects oil into the intake manifold/carb (depending on year) to help lube the apex seals since they have no form of lube like a piston ring would
problem is when the deposit started to build up it would make the apex seals stick and do one of two things. stick out and break. or sink into the groove and then you would get blowby .


since then synthetics came a long way and now burn clean. they just haven't got past that whole thing though... kinda like people tell me it's an act of *** that my rotary hasn't needed to be rebuilt every 20k miles and has lasted up to 190k.... the rotary still has that stigma as well *shrugs*

I have known many people who run synthetic though with no problems and soon I plan on using it myself once I can afford it
and once the turbo motor goes in I WILL use it.
just need to make sure the flash point is low enough that it burns away and also that it is a clean burning oil
if I have any problems I can just disconnect the oil injection system and run premix oil in my gas. or have a another tank setup that would allow me to use synthetic for the bearings and everything and regular for the apex


all in all though the synthetic should work fine

 

I been using Mobil 1 10-30 in my car for the past year with k&n filters. I just recently switched my rear and engine over to royal purple (I get it cheap at work), and noticed from the switch i dont have as much valve thicking... yes thicking not tapping, my engine made a little thicking when u would first start it. Now its gone, why I dunno. But im liking the royal purple, and i just use a regular fram filter. No need to go over kill on the filter if i change it ever 3months or 3k... But Royal Purple is nice if any of you wanna try it out, Ill recommend it. Plus its fantastic in little imports my gf swears by the stuff thats why i tried it out.

 

Has anyone noticed any change in oil pressure when changing from regular to synthetic or a change in oil consumption?

 

rx7speed thanx for explaning that to me. I was just stumped as to why Mazda would void a warany because of the use of synthetic (sorry to be off topic, but my brothers apex seal in his 88 rx7 is bad, what would be a reasonable price for him to get it fixed? I think he told me some one wanted $700 is that to much?)


25THRSS I noticed a diffrence when I switched to synthetic, and my engine has alot of miles on it. the engine smothed out, and it gets a more consistant oil pressure. when driving the oil pressure is always around 30 and at idle it stays right at 15(thats once the engine has warmed up. its higher when the engine is cold). that is based on the stock oil gauge so it may be a bit off. when I purchased the car it had dino oil in it, and the oil pressure seemed to always fluctuate a bit at all times

 

that oil pressure seems awful low...maybe im just to used to the l69's higher volume pump, when its cold im between 60 and 70 psi, when its warm at idle, 42 psi, and warm and under load, about 55 psi, this is all with dyno juice too, maybe ill go synthetic next time i get a pay raise

 

Never heard that one before.

I have heard that it was first used on vehicles during the constuction of the Alaskan pipeline. Regular oil "gelled" up overnight in the extreme cold temps, and caused batteries to die while trying to start them in the morning.

Synthetics have a much more stable viscosity during extreme temp changes. After switching to synthetic in all tractors etc. during pipeline construction, the oil stayed liquid and made cold morning starts much easier. Any one else heard this????

BTW - If my car doesn't leak or burn excessive amounts of oil between oil changes (around 5-6K), I'll always use synthetic.

It DOES keep a lot of the gunk out of the engine. If you tear down an engine...one than ran dino juice, and the other Synthetic - you'd be able to tell which is which.

BUT - nothing wroung with dino juice either...just have to change it more often.

 

sorry for the OT myself but it will be quick
if he is doing the rebuild that is a good price. as long as it is covering the whole rebuild kit.
try www.racingbeat.com
or www.mazdatrix.com if you want for rebuild kits.
one thing that might help you bro out a little is to take the bottom spark plugs out and remove the EGI comp, and EGI inj fuses. then put some sort of funnel or something in there and put some ATF in there... click the starter, honest jst like a tap then put some more in there.
continue that for a few times till you have all 6 apex seals and the side seals in ATF. put the plugs back in and the fuses. let the motor sit AT LEAST 24 hours. and start her up. it will take a while to get all the stuff out there and expect it smoke a LOT. when the smoke starts to die down quite abit go take it for a drive hitting the redline a few times to make sure you get all that crap out of there. doing this gives you a chance of restoring some of that compression if it was just a sticking seal
here is another write up for you
http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm


also with synthetic oil my pressure is about 55 at idle and 110psi at 1500 or above
didn't change from synthetic to dino juice.
did notice a little change in gas milage and that was using only a synthetic blend.
power I can't tell yet
oil consumption stayed about the same and that is with a leak in my oil cooler but I am also runnin 20w50
the choice is yours but if you have the money to spare I would say go to a full synthetic oil

 

15 psi at idle is a pretty normal oil pressure. Mine does that too.

 

Mine is usually a litte higher than 15 PSI at idle, when it's hot (using dino oil of course). But still, nothing to worry about if you're at 15 PSI. -89IRO