are there 2 timing marks in 3rd gens ??
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Bedfordshire, England, UK
are there 2 timing marks in 3rd gens ??
The Chilton manual refers to two timing marks... one it says has a mark on all sides of the pulley wheel and the other, 180 degrees on the other side (which isn't used for timing against splug #1 and has a mark on just the top side). If there are 2 markings (as stated in chilton manual) would it make much difference which timing mark is used ?
I have an 87 firebird. I wouldn't say I've looked extensively but on brief inspection I can find only one notch on the solid flywheel behind the pulley wheel. -is this correct?
My car ran perfect until the old distributor broke... I've been looking into all sorts of things (including timing chain) but as everything was perfect until old distributor broke, I'm thinking it's something to do with tiiming setting or distributor and don't want to add another variable by messing with the timing chain.
I've set it to exact specifications but still doesn't seem to be right... the car is now lurching (and feels hesitant) in low gears -feels like the gear box but as it's only been driven a few times since the problems with the distributor, I think prob best not to mess around with anything else. My timing does advance with the timing advance connector disconnected so that's a problem too.
The car stalled earlier on today. That doesn't happen very often, but whenever it stalls, it's always error code 33 or 34... to do with MAF sensor... that's been checked and is ok... I wonder if its a glitch and just automatically "blames" something which i guess behaves stangely because of the loss of power?
thanks for your help!
I have an 87 firebird. I wouldn't say I've looked extensively but on brief inspection I can find only one notch on the solid flywheel behind the pulley wheel. -is this correct?
My car ran perfect until the old distributor broke... I've been looking into all sorts of things (including timing chain) but as everything was perfect until old distributor broke, I'm thinking it's something to do with tiiming setting or distributor and don't want to add another variable by messing with the timing chain.
I've set it to exact specifications but still doesn't seem to be right... the car is now lurching (and feels hesitant) in low gears -feels like the gear box but as it's only been driven a few times since the problems with the distributor, I think prob best not to mess around with anything else. My timing does advance with the timing advance connector disconnected so that's a problem too.
The car stalled earlier on today. That doesn't happen very often, but whenever it stalls, it's always error code 33 or 34... to do with MAF sensor... that's been checked and is ok... I wonder if its a glitch and just automatically "blames" something which i guess behaves stangely because of the loss of power?
thanks for your help!
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Jackson County
there should be only one timing mark, even if there were 100 the light should only "freeze" one mark and that would be the one to use. make sure #1 is @ TDC on compression and rotor is pointing to #1 post on distributor cap. make sure you're following correct procedure to set timing.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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Andrew,
The base timing setting should have little effect on the MAF readings. If you are generating a "33" or "34", you need to determine which one it is (or both) and deal with that separately.
The timing marks you should use are these:
The base timing setting should have little effect on the MAF readings. If you are generating a "33" or "34", you need to determine which one it is (or both) and deal with that separately.
The timing marks you should use are these:
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