how do you adjust the valves?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
From: Crawfordsville Indiana
Car: 85 trans am
Engine: 79 4 bolt 350
Transmission: 700r4
how do you adjust the valves?
i have a 79 350 in my ta and it has the 441 heads and before i changed the valve cover gaskets one of the lifters was slapping so i just tightend it and a couple others down a little to make it stop. well now i have another one making a slapping noise and it seems to be using a little oil. could this be the cause? also how do you adjust the valves on the older heads like that? dont you need some kind of guage? and how do you use it? thanks alot
Supreme Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 1
From: W. Kentucky
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.70
On a hydraulic cam you pull the valve cover off then start it up. On each one back the nut off until it just starts to rattle or tap. Tighten it until it just barely stops ticking then another half a turn. Go through and do all them this way and they will be set perfect.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Works better (less messy) if you run through them all to the zero-lash point, where they just stop ticking, and leave them there; and then shut the motor off and add the half-turn of lifter preload with the motor not running.
Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 510
Likes: 5
From: Santiago, CHILE
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Engine: 305 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: The famous 700R4
Axle/Gears: No idea
I did do a search about this topic. Tons of information here:
- Engine running at idle & normal temperature range (heater "on" is better for no overheating in this procedure).
- CAUTION: Auto trans in PARK!!!!
- No more people around/into the car.
- No test with accelerator pedal = oil in headers = too much smoke (cof, cof,...).
- A bit of "mechanic hand" with turning the nuts.
Good luck
Denis V.
- Engine running at idle & normal temperature range (heater "on" is better for no overheating in this procedure).
- CAUTION: Auto trans in PARK!!!!
- No more people around/into the car.
- No test with accelerator pedal = oil in headers = too much smoke (cof, cof,...).
- A bit of "mechanic hand" with turning the nuts.
Good luck
Denis V.
Supreme Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 1
From: W. Kentucky
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Originally posted by Denis.V
I did do a search about this topic. Tons of information here:
- Engine running at idle & normal temperature range (heater "on" is better for no overheating in this procedure).
- CAUTION: Auto trans in PARK!!!!
- No more people around/into the car.
- No test with accelerator pedal = oil in headers = too much smoke (cof, cof,...).
- A bit of "mechanic hand" with turning the nuts.
Good luck
Denis V.
I did do a search about this topic. Tons of information here:
- Engine running at idle & normal temperature range (heater "on" is better for no overheating in this procedure).
- CAUTION: Auto trans in PARK!!!!
- No more people around/into the car.
- No test with accelerator pedal = oil in headers = too much smoke (cof, cof,...).
- A bit of "mechanic hand" with turning the nuts.
Good luck
Denis V.
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