He thinks that the 3.42s would make him slower in the 1/4 than the v8s 2.77s or 3.08s. He just cant drive.

 

this thread has become more then full of c r a p...


cant you all just learn to post without turning into idiots after the first page?

 

Just a thought:

L98 on Ebay $1300

AFR 190s $1250

Comp Cam $250

Port the intake and you would have a pretty quick car. And you can probably find the TPI a little cheaper, I just looked real quick.

Brian

 

its a non POSI rear end thats what wrong with it


isn't it a 2:73 or somehting like that???

 

Does anyone know what the fastest TPI thats natural engine no nos or supercharged or turbo's that street legal and emmssions friendly.

 

again your the bigest dick head i ahve even seen LoL and what was your R/T time and your saying i can't drive? LOL

 

L98 i believe

 

There are a decent amount of parts out there for TPIs that are street legal. The AFR 190s are street legal. SuperRam base, runners, and plenum are all street legal. MANY camp are street legal. Those will get you pretty far into the 12s with a tranny and rear end that can handle them. And dont forget about traction.

Brian

 

I guess i'll go with the TPI just because its easier. :sillylol:

 

Let me just offer this for sacrifice. I have an 83 Camaro Z28, I'm extremely budget limited, so I freshened up the 305, changed the cam. It's a 305 HO, nothing fancy. I found a parts car(it was well maintained but rusty), removed the entire rebuilt front suspension, interior, and engine (this is the one I'm rebuilding) the suspension had Koni struts/shocks swaybars and springs. Ponied up the big bucks for a 4.11 posi. Sold off the doors, entire tranny assembly and misc parts, including wheels and tires. So far, I have $950 in the rear, $400 in the engine, $400 for the price of the car (200,000 miles, but original paint and absolutely no rust) and found a set of 4th gen 10 spokes with z rated goodyears and adaptors $450 It's going to need a clutch and misc stuff, including paint, so figure in another $1,000 to tighten things up if I do it myself. So it will end up being about $3,200 That amount buys a whole lot of fun, especially if you want to build a particular car (I did) but.... you can find runners for that amount that would be a lot faster in the 1/4 mile (but it would be tough to find one that would out-handle it). So, my suggestion is to decide on exactly what YOU, (not your friends or anyone else) wants to do. If YOU want to build THAT car go ahead, but it may take a few extra bucks to do it. I would also go conservative. If your goal is acceleration then you need to proceed differently than if you autocross. In either case, the best performance bang for the buck is to change the rearend gearing,and add a posi unit, and that 350 looks very tempting. Remember!! everything costs more than it looks. Those 2 mods however are do-able for that amount of money.

 

Okay i finally decide to spend it on a 1989 350 TPI going to take it apart and rebuild it with better heads ,rockers,crank,and cam and super ram intake but was wondering if anybody could tell me what amount of hp shot from nos if safe with a rebuilt engine that has been properly been through the break in process?Also what 350 TPI engine made the most horsepower stock?and how much horse power can i get from turning it in to a 383 stroker.Also im think about getting a procharger supercharger with the super ram all at once so how much hp should i be around?And im going to keep it auto and what stall speed should i get and what are some things i can buy to get this 700-R4 ready for the massive torque and possibly a 200hp shot of nos?





THANKS FOR ALL YOU HELP. :rockon: :hail:



Oh and im going to get those 3.42's in some time this month hope to see big gains.Also how do you guys feel about me running 1 3/4 headers on my 305 TBI then i can use the same ones on my 350?will anything bad happen?will they fit?

 

Yes they will fit..(If they are 3rd gen specific)..only good things come from freeing up the exhaust.....

 

go to fl-thirdgen.org then go to" power adder" there is a story there where someone got 600hp from a STOCK bottom end sbc before it went boom, using N2O
****the post has been archived, it's no longer up, so you'll have to look for it******

 

I'm not real old (lower 30s) but I have been through quite a few vehicles. The one I regret selling the most was the one that got me through high school. A 78 z28. It had one of the lowest horsepower 350s ever in it. But that was one good looking car. And it didn't take a whole lot of mods to get into the low 15s high 14s. But I really, really, really wish I would have kept that car and continually modded it. I won't make that mistake again with my car now. You sound like you are kind of like me. You become attached to something and working and massaging it becomes more important than economics. I realize I'm that way so have tried to go the sell high buy low route but always end up lossing money somehow and regretting what I sold.

I would spend the money on a decent 350 bottom end, some decent heads and the TBI mods. You won't have near the hastle of the LT1 swap and be able to out run a stock one.

 

Dude! you're killing me! My first new car was a yellow 78 Z28 orderred with a 4speed and 3.73 posi. As soon as it was out of warranty I put forged pistons in it, and a 350/350 cam with a holley and a set of blackjack alumi-kote headers. I'd give ANYTHING to have that car back. It was the biggest snapper- factory I ever owned.

 

Mine was on a .000 index not .050 and I was not used to it thought I was going red for the forst hour I was at the track that night.

 

sorry, beg to differ on that carb comment, if they have passed this many years then they will continue to do so, ive got a edelbrock 600cfm on my 355, with NO emmissions crap, passed every year with no problems

it depends on how well you keep your engine tuned.

 

Man, you need to slow down a bit. Sounds like you want to run a blown 383 with a 200 shot of spray with a 700R4 Lets break this down into a few different steps.

1. Determine an overall goal for the project. Either a horsepower number or a quartermile ET. Throwing a bunch of parts at the car, while fun, is rarely the correct way to gain performance. Everything here needs to be matched, so you need a clear vision for the project. It sounds like you dont have a lot of experiance building motors so for this one id keep it simple. Aim for 350-400hp. I think this would be a good goal for you. The next steps show your different options. (btw this is all with using an L98, the best choice for a motor IMO. The LT1 is nothing special and any standard small block can do just as much if not more then an LT1 or an LS1)

2. N/A 355ci L98. The easiest build out of all your choices. You can easily get 350-400 out of this combo if you pick the right parts. The block will need overbored at least .030 for the rebuild so you gain 5ci. For the bottom end, re-use the stock crank, get some H-beam connecting rods, and some decent forged pistons, around 10:1 C/R. For the top end id recommend some AFR aluminum heads, probably a Comp or Crane cam, and top it off with a Holley Stealth Ram intake (you will have a hard time gettting 400hp N/A with the stock intake). I dont know if this will fit under your stock hood so you may need to get a cowl hood or something. You will need to speak with your engine builder to get the rest of the small parts figured out and to get the exact parts that you'll need to run. Make sure you have someone knowledgeable to assist you with the parts selection. Dont just open summit and start ordering stuff cause you like the description.

3. N/A 383ci L98. Pretty much the same buildup as above but using a 400 stroke crank. You can either get a stock 400 crank from a junkyard or somewhere or get an aftermarket stroker crank. I think SCAT makes a decent forged crank for a good price. Just remember that anytime you add a new crank the cost of the project will increase a significant amount. Dont forget that you will need to clearance the block for the new crank. The advantage to the 383 is that they normally produce a lot of torque and its always easier to get more HP out of more CI.

4. Using Nitrous. I wouldnt recommend this for your first motor but if you really want to you can add nitrous to either of the above motors with some different parts. First off your whole bottom end is going to need to be forged parts. A 4340 crank, rods and forged pistons. Just remmeber that adding a 200 shot onto a 400hp motor is gona be 600hp which is a lot of ponies and if you mess around with it your gona get hurt. Speaking with a good engine builder is important here to make sure that you get all the right parts. Remember the faster you go, the more money you spend. I think building either the 355 or the 383 is going to pretty much clean out your budget.

5. Supercharger. Again not a good choice for a first motor but its doable. Cost is going to be significant here. A normal blower kit costs $3000 or more just for the kit, not including install or anything else. The bottom end of the motor will need to be forged and your going to need a lower C/R, around 8:1 to accomidate the boost, I dont think this is a viable option so I wont go into more detail.

6. Transmission. After building your motor your gona need something to back it up with. A stock 700R4 or even a semi-decent built one is not going to survive behind a 400hp motor, let alone a blown or sprayed one. If you want to run high HP numbers with a 4 speed auto your going to need to have Pro-Built or FLP build you a strong 700R4, which is gona cost you $1000 or more. Trust me, make sure you use one of these companies to build your 700R4. Im not saying nobody else can but after going through 4 700's in 2 years in my 450hp (sprayed) IROC I know what not to do. The 700 is a junk trans IMO. Youd be better off goign with a Th350 or Th400 trans. Only a 3 speed but much stronger and cheaper to build. I had one built, setup for my car, and installed for under $800 vs. the $1000 a trans I was spending just to have a 700R4 built, not installed or anything else. I have a Th350 in my car now and am very happy with it.

7. Rear end. I assume you have a 10 bolt which can live behind 400hp. Id definitly have it rebuilt and get a posi and some better gears in there. Probably go with 3.45 gears. Thats what I have in my 9 bolt and Im very happy with them.

Overall, id say that you can make this a pretty decent running car. After your 305, a 400hp 355 is going to feel like a damn rocketship. Dont jump ahead too quickly and aim for 600hp or anything cause youll spend way too much cash and get way too much motor to use as a daily driver. I think you could probably pull off the 355 with a Th350 trans and rebuilding the rear end for around $4000-$4500. For the same combo with the 383 figure $5000. To spray either motor add $500 for the kit and then another $500 for the install if you have someone else do it. To blow either of those motors add $4000 to the price. The prices for those motors is assuming that you install them yourself while having someone else do the machine work and assembly.

Good luck man and remember to keep it sane.

 

Spent 20 minutes reading all this... only to not get an ending!

What did you end up doing?

 

hrrmm in reply to the above post remember that an LS1 with bolt-ons can hit high 10's low 11's with bolt-ons, still get decent gas mileage and be totally streetable..

 

V6 rearend is prolly better than most people with the V8 rear

 

I thought the V6 rear was weak and wouldn't last long with V8 torque?

 

Same darn gears as the v-8...iif you need posi, just get a posi unit from a posi rear.. bolt on your 3:42 ring gear and be done with it...It will last as long as any other 10 bolt.

 

Look at your 89 tech data here...https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml

 

Stop knocking the little 305. It does what it was intended to do. Give a reasonable amount of HP, last a long time, run clean, and get great gas mileage while doing it. Mine runs mid-low 15s all day long @ 88 mph. It also gets 17-18 mpg with the cruise set at 65-70 mph. It is in a G20 van backed by a 700r4 and 3.42:1 gears. I can make it fish tail on dry pavement doing a burnout. I love my little 305. Oh yeah the short block has almost 200,000 miles on it. I've got about $500.00 into the engine that includes the exhuast, carb, cam, rebuilt heads and the Performer RPM intake I have in my garage to put on it. When the short block finally dies it is coming out, being bored .030" over if needed, crank turned .010 or .020" under, and getting a cheap rebuild kit with Hypereutetic pistons tossed in it. My little 305 HO truck motor came with a forged crank, forged X rods, and 4-bolt main caps (i have had the oil pan off to change the oil pump and oil pump driveshaft and put an almost new moroso pan on it).

 

One thing to remember on the 89 rear is..It was the changeover year fro 26 spline axles to 28 splines. Only way to tell is to pull an axle and count the splines...mine was the 26 spline count. a bit weaker than the newer 28.

 

blowing clean enough to pass a emissions test and being smog legal are two seperate things.