This is in regards to my '89 IROC (see sig).

Let's say that there is a dot on the top of the steering wheel when the wheels are pointed directly foreward--so the dot is at 12:00. With my car, I basically have to turn the wheel to at least 2:00 or 10:00 to actually get the wheels to turn. Everything between 10:00 and 2:00 is flop/play--just a range of dead rotation that doesn't really turn the wheels.

I didn't generally think much of it, but after driving some newer cars and comparing, I've found that the extra play really takes away from a feeling of responsiveness when I try to do a quick turn, for example. Plus, I've if I have to stay in a long turn (i.e. a loop on a highway), I've found myself needing to constantly adjust the steering wheel to compensate for that extra play--even on a turn of a consistient radius. In other cars, it seems like I just have to point the steering wheel in the direction I want and just hold it for the turn.

In fact, I just drove my '88 Camaro SC around today for the heck of it, and it even feels more responsive than my IROC--and has even less play. I know my IROC is supposed to have a closer ratio steering box, so I would expect the IROC to feel more responsive.

I have less than 2,500 miles on my rebuilt front end.

Is there any way that I can tighten the steering wheel up, or do I need to be looking for a new steering box?

Thanks

 

YOU ARE COMPARING A MANUAL LINKAGE STEERING SETUP TO MOST LIKELY A RACK AND PINION SETUP IN A NEW CAR, THERE REALLY SHOULD BE NO COMPARISON HONESTLY. UNLESS YOUR
STEERING SHAFT IS WORN OUT OR LIKE YOU SAID THE STEERING BOX IS FAULTY, A CAR WITH A NEWLY REBUILT FRONT SUSPENSION IS AS TIGHT AS THAT VEHICLE IS GOING TO BE.

 

Check the free play at the steering box, you may want to adjust the pre-load in the input bearing.
If you decide to tackle this, get a Year specific Factory Service manual and read, understand and follow the service procedure for adjusting the steering box.
You might want to check for a cracked frame under the box also.

 

When you did the front end rebuild, did you replace the rag joint or steering shaft?

 

Sancho,

Did that "new" front end include the idler arm? Control arm bushings? Ball joints? Upper strut bearings?

Jeff mentioned some good points - the stress cracks (and bolt hole wallowing) on the frame rail and steering box lash. And the flex joint in the column might also be a good suspect.

Adjusting the gearbox lash is easy. Adjusting it wrong and trashing your steering gearbox is also easy. There is an inch/ounce torque specification for the input shaft turning resistance that should not be exceeeded for any gearbox, but I can't recall what it is specifically. Also, the procedure requires removal of the steering shaft and Pitman arm to measure load. It's alsmost easier to remove the box from the vehicle and set it up on a bench to adjust. It's also a good means to inspect the fram rail and stiffen it if necessary.

If everything appears to be normal, you might want to consider a "wonder bar" lower frame brace and/or upper end strut tower brace. Either or both of those can reduce front frame flexing and make the car more compliant in turns. Your particular situation does sound more like a steering box or linkage lash problem, however.

 

Hope this helps everyone: