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Got any ideas on how to remove a stripped bolt?

Old Oct 25, 2000 | 06:19 AM
  #1  
Biochem's Avatar
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From: This spot right here --->*
Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Got any ideas on how to remove a stripped bolt?

The head on one of the bolts holding on the mechanical fuel pump is stripped. I cannot get a good grip due to the location so close to the fuel pump with vise grips, and it's on there pretty good. The other bolt is no problem.

I was thinking of sawing off the head of the bolt and removing the pump. Then I should have about 1" or the bolt sticking out of the engine block and should have a good grip on it then with the vise grips... I hope. Sound OK or is there a better one?

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Old Oct 25, 2000 | 08:17 AM
  #2  
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From: Edmonton Alberta
Car: Trans AM
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5spd
Drill it out

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Godti
'89 Trans Am (Red)
305 TBI 5spd
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Old Oct 25, 2000 | 08:32 AM
  #3  
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would a stud remover work I have had people tell me that i should?????
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Old Oct 25, 2000 | 08:34 AM
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Tough to fit a drill up there. I hardly had room for my ratchet the other night when I changed the gasket on my block off plate. If you grind off the head and remove the pump, you should have enough shaft protruding that you should be able to grind a couple flat spots into it and get a good grip with the vise grips. Just keep in mind that if you break it off flush, you're in real tough shape, and may need to find a very shallow angle drill and try to drill it enough to get an easy-out in.

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Old Oct 25, 2000 | 09:57 AM
  #5  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Here's one I've never tried (uh-oh!), so use your discretion..

I've heard you can take a metal file, and "make" a new bolt head out of the old one... this way you can get an open-ended adjustable wrench (or vise grips) on it. If you can fit a saw in there then you could definately fit a file!

If you had enough patience you might be able to file all 6 corners to make the bolt head one socket size smaller. If you do this, you could also try whacking the "newly cut" bolt head with a hammer before you try to loosen the bolt- this might crumble any rust/crap that's on the bolt threads.

If you have a friend that's a welder, ask him to weld a nut on top of the bad bolt.

Other than that, yeah, cutting the head off sounds like a good way to go. You might get more room to work.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Old Oct 25, 2000 | 11:50 PM
  #6  
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Bio,

Throw your F'in Vise-Grips away - they're old technology that really doesn't grip that well. Most of mine have been relegated to the drawer for use when welding.

If you have a really tough bolt, stud, fitting, etc, to remove, try a pair of ChannelLock 410G pliers. These are not the "standard" ChannelLock water pump pliers. They are a high leverage, self-gripping design. If you can fit it on it, it will turn it. These things are the cat's *ss for this kind of task. I've had these for about ten years and have actually won a few bets with them.

The down-side is that they will ruin anything they grip, but if you only waqnt to get it out of there, who cares?

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Vader
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