Hydraulic lifters, 268 ex-energy cam, 291 bowtie heads, manley screw in studs, comp cams 1.52 roller tipped rockers, 350:

to make this short, i installed the rockers by tightening them until the pushrod was hard to rotate and right before the lifter compressed. Then i turned the lock nut a half turn father. i also went in the right order, 1-6 etc..

it just doesn't seem right though. the roller on the end of the rocker keeps falling to the side and it doesn't make complete contact with the valve stem.

i spun the engine by hand and the rockers seemed to stay on track, but i need to be sure before i put the intake on.

Thanks to anyone who can help me out.

 

sounds about right to me. did you pre fill the lifters with oil? if not you might want to take them out and put them i na can of oil and use a push rod to pump them up with oil. make sure the valves are closed completely when you tighten the nut down and make sure the lifter doesn't spin as you increase preasure on the push rod.

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1st & 3rd

 

Using guide plates? The rollers should not fall off the vavle stem at all.

 

Surrea,

This is one of the many reasons I like to adjust the final lash with the engine hot and running. It makes it very easy for hacks like me to get it right.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

I've been a racer for almost 30 years. By far, the easiest way to adjust hydraulic lifters on a small or big block Chevy is to approach it as if you were adjusting lifters for a solid lifter cam. Instead of 'twirling or spinning' the pushrod (which can be VERY deceiving on new lifters that haven't been filled completely with oil), use a .002 or .003 (or thinnest you have) feeler guage. When you start getting drag on the thin guage, you will instantly feel it. After you get the 'drag on the guage' go ahead and turn the adjusting nut 1/2 turn more. I've done dozens of engines this way and the only difference is I usually go about 3/4 turn on 'grocery getter' engines.
jms