wondering about some real world opinions on whether to go with the straight bolt main caps or splayed bolt caps....on a factory 4 bolt block. I will be spraying a 250shot on the motor when its done but i cant afford a $2k aftermarket block. Just want a solid bottom end. thanks.

 

I don't think the splayed 4 bolts cap will fit in a factory 4 bolt block.

Edit:

Would you be talkiung about a splayed cap, that is designed for a factory 4bolt block? Didn't know they were made.

 

I have a set of splayed milodon 4 bolt caps on one of my 350 blocks. But I started out with a "010" 2 bolt block, for that setup. My block is all machined on the engine stand. Still haven't decided if I'm going to go big block instead. You could probably buy aftermarket non-splayed caps as a replacement, if your worried about the stock caps. If you have your heart set on splayed, get a 2 bolt block.

John

 

How much does it usually cost to have a 2-bolt drilled for splayed main caps?

 

how much power are you making? and what engine is this going on?

 

can't splay a 4 bolt block cost is around 200-250 to have it done, plus the cost of the caps

 

not sure what it costs but it isnt too difficult to do... did mine myself

 

Like 89RsPower! stated, they aren't hard to do at all. I drilled and tapped mine as well. I bolted on the 2 inner bolts, then used a punch to center where I was going to drill for the splayed bolt holes. Set the depth I wanted for the bolts, then drilled. Then tapped the threads. Just take your time.

 

didn't you get the bore redone after you changed caps?

 

I had my block punched out after I drilled and tapped for my main caps.. i did them first to save myself some money at the machine shop.. out of curiosity why do you ask?

 

After I drilled and tapped for the splayed caps, I had the block align bored & honed. Then tapped lifter valley, water restrictors on deck, smoothed the casting, etc. Then had machine shop do the normal machine work for the rest of the block (0 decked, .030 over, etc.) This particular block of mine won't be in a street vehicle. Most likely it will find it's way into a roundy-round late model or street stock this season. Haven't decided yet. Still a simple thing to do instead of spending money on. That's of course if your application really requires it. Plus the 2 bolt blocks are much easier to find.

 

i ask becasue there's a very good chance the CLwould be straight or round after the new caps are installed. most of the machining cost comes from that not drilling and tapping the holes. it's interesting, i never considered doing it my self and then sending it to the shop to be finished.

 

It's likely that the CL of the new caps will be higher than the original CL of the block saddles. Even before trimming the mounting bosses, it seems they tend to allow more bore material than necessary - at least on the couple sets I've done. Align boring on the original CL is about $150-180 around here. Align honing is cheaper, but changes the CL of the crank, altering deck height, timing chain length, and cam clearance.

Caps alone are about $100-125. 7/16-14 taps are about seven bucks.

Then again, I'm a really cheap SOB. I'd think a guy with a mill and a low enough knee would be all over boring his own saddles.

 

I guess I'm just cheap.. that and I like to do everything by myself that I can possibly do.. not sure how much I actually saved by tapping my own holes... probably not that much really because I still spent a decent amount of money having it machined after I tapped the holes but to me every bit of money I can save counts and I'm with Vader on that one.. if I had the equipment to do the rest myself I probably would have tried it.. after all the block was free