car starts and runs for 10 minutes , then dies,.... can heat sink on a pickup coil do this or an ignition module??? i heard that if the pu coil was bad the car wouldnt even start,, so i am assuming its the module.. fuel pressure is fine..
i know you guys are gonnna say to test both of them,, but i just wanna know which is the probable suspect.
thanks

------------------
1988 GTA Trans Am 350tpi: 42k miles,3:27 BW rear, aftermarket t-tops
Hotchkis: subframe connectors & strut tower brace
Flowmaster: 3inch exhaust& dual chamber muffler
Accel: 8.8mm wires, ignition module, cap&rotor, u-groove spark plugs
Edelbrock: 52mmTB, intake & runners
K&N: filtercharger
TPIS: 170* stat, afpr, mat relocation kit
March: performance crank and alternator pulleys
Hypertech: 176* fan switch
Other mods: ported plenum, gutted cat, tb coolant bypass, flux capasitor

 

come on guys

 

Well, if you have no spark, the ignition module would be a good guess. Actually, it would be very likely. The module is also a bit easier to change! The key is to check for spark first!

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

Ron,

You can test the pickup coil with an ohmmeter, but not the amplifier module. When it dies, test the pickup coil resistance as soon as you can. The resistance should be between 500-1,500 ohms between connections, infinite resistance to ground (no conductivity).

If the coil is over 1,500, it may be cracked and opening when it warms up. By the way, the same thing can happen to an ignition coil.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0