MANY PROBS WITH NEW GTA!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 124
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From: Philadelphia Age:16
MANY PROBS WITH NEW GTA!!!!!!!!!
OK... the idle is shot.... I have to idle it manually... if I stop in gear w/o power braking it, it stalls. It IS missing, I feel it. It was a decent exhaust leak, soon to be fixed. Just help me get it runnin smoothly please!!! Not throwing any codes.
Its an 89 L98. Thanks guys!
Its an 89 L98. Thanks guys!
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
check the tps and iac. replace those if they are bad. that exhaust leak shouldn't cause a rough idle. vacuum leaks? timing? did you give it a tune up yet?
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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...
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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 149
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It sounds like something that happened to my Iroc (how many times do we all say that here?)
did you check the spark plug cables to see if they are cracked, best time to check is at night and you may see sparks flying under the hood. Even small crack are visible.
did you check the spark plug cables to see if they are cracked, best time to check is at night and you may see sparks flying under the hood. Even small crack are visible.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 19,651
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Blade,
I think I mentioned it before, but in case I didn't...
Treat any newly acquired vehicle like you've resurrected it from the junk yard. You must assume that NO maintenance has been done. Start with all fluids and filters. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc.
Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, oxygen sensor, etc.
Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.
Once you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not.
I'm guessing that the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs will solve most of your problems. If not, they will at least be reliable and you can proceed to the control adjustments. TB cleaning, TPS and timing settings, and minimum idle air adjustments should help.
If you've exhausted all other possibilities, you might have failing injectors. Since the fuel filter will already have been changed by then, a quick pressure test of the system will eliminate the pump and regulator as possibilities. After that, you can performa a power balance test of the injectors to determine which if any are not flowing correctly.
One of these steps should get you closer to solving the problem, and would cost you a total of less than $200 if you do the work yourself.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
I think I mentioned it before, but in case I didn't...
Treat any newly acquired vehicle like you've resurrected it from the junk yard. You must assume that NO maintenance has been done. Start with all fluids and filters. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc.
Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, oxygen sensor, etc.
Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.
Once you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not.
I'm guessing that the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs will solve most of your problems. If not, they will at least be reliable and you can proceed to the control adjustments. TB cleaning, TPS and timing settings, and minimum idle air adjustments should help.
If you've exhausted all other possibilities, you might have failing injectors. Since the fuel filter will already have been changed by then, a quick pressure test of the system will eliminate the pump and regulator as possibilities. After that, you can performa a power balance test of the injectors to determine which if any are not flowing correctly.
One of these steps should get you closer to solving the problem, and would cost you a total of less than $200 if you do the work yourself.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
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