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Hard to start when cold

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Old Jan 6, 2004 | 06:07 PM
  #1  
groundrat's Avatar
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From: Newmarket, NH
Car: 91Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi, 3.08
Hard to start when cold

Ok, heres my problem. Just got my 82 Z28 all put back together with a rebuilt 355. I am running an edelbrock Qjet(1901), Single wire HEI distributor(used) Headers and dual exhaust. I got the car running ran it for 25 mins to break in the cam set the timing and sort of adjusted the carb.(was going to finish that today). Got in her this afternoon, and she wont fire. She spins like a top, but no fire. I turnd the distributor and she fired right up, but the timing is off. At least I think it is. The aftermarket timing tab could be off. So could this be a distributor problem? Dont have any history on it. I should just replace the module and the vac advance as well as the curve kit. The cap and rotor are new as are the wires. I had three people verify the wires are correct. Once she gets running I can set the timing and she runs perfect. So I am open to any and all suggestions. Sorry for the long post.

Bill
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 08:33 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
could be a problem with the timing marks more than anything, especially since you've changed to aftermarket timing tab.
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Old Jan 7, 2004 | 02:06 PM
  #3  
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From: Newmarket, NH
Car: 91Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi, 3.08
Is there a way to set the timing without a timing light? Or is there a way I can set the Engine to #1 TDC and mark where the notch on the balancer is? Also I realized I am dumb and forgot to disconnect the vaccum line from the vac advance on the dist, so I will recheck that later. Thanks!!
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 11:38 PM
  #4  
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
get a 10 dollar piston stop from your speed shop or W/E....
screw it into your sparkplug hole and manuallly turn the motor over by hand untill the tool stops the motor....with the refrence point of your discretion make a mark at the point....then spin the motor the other way, and again make a mark on the balancer..those 2 marks indicate the piston being at the top of the stroke but before the dwell....and the spot right in the middle of the 2 marks you made on the balancer indicates true TDC....

now, the piston will come to the top of the cylinder twice in its cycle, once on overlap and once on fire,..now on either stroke aslong as u find TDC your good to go....obviously you want to get it on the firing stroke with both valves closed on TDC, but if u get it on overlap just take out the distributor and put it back in 180...
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 01:25 AM
  #5  
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Colorado
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: LT 1,
Transmission: TH700R4
I have seen this problem before trying to remember the cause?
It was one of the following missing ground strap under the coil.
stuck mechanical advance , faulty pickup coil I have also seen
the dist shaft break free from the pickup wheel rotates out of alignment. sounds like the crank timming is different from run timming. poss module.
just trying to remember
but look at what I have suggested only trying to help
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 06:34 AM
  #6  
groundrat's Avatar
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From: Newmarket, NH
Car: 91Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi, 3.08
Thank you all for your insights. I will try them all as soon as the weather gets back above zero. Hopefully Sunday. Thanks again!!

Bill
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