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Some help with rod selection please

Old Jan 23, 2004 | 10:36 PM
  #1  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Some help with rod selection please

I've been looking at some of the "mid priced" rods and found a few interesting choices in the $400- $500 range. I'm hoping I can get some recommendations/ feedback from those who've been there.
This will be for a daily driven 383 that will be in the 400hp range (hypothetically), possibly raced on weekends, possibly sprayed (+100hp or more)
These are 6" rods, all rated for 500- 550 hp.

Lunati Street Race PN- LHD1
I beam, cap screw, stroker clearanced, 600 grams - $399

Manley Sportsmaster PN-14103
profiled I beam, cap screw, 578 g -$477

Eagle Featherweight PN- CRS6000BLW
H beam, cap screw, stroker clearanced, 545g -$489

Any feedback, cautionary notes, horror stories appreciated.

Thanks for helping out, as always.

Last edited by Streetiron85; Jan 24, 2004 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 07:09 AM
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ede
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never used any of them, but i have used lot of lunati and manely products. i'd buy the lunati rods, besides being cheapest i've had great sucess with their parts for a lot of years. 400hp isn't alot to ask any of the rods to support.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 08:06 AM
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Yep, with only 400 hp I'ld go with the most budget friendly rods, the Lunati's.
Lunati's stuff is pretty top notch and even though they're the heaviest the weight differance between the rods shouldn't be of concern on a low hp low RPM motor.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 11:29 AM
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
My guess is that these are all good rods.
And with each, as the price goes up, you get added features.
I edited in to the original question that I might use nitrous, or possibly other power adder.

Can anyone give any reasons why any one of these rods wouldn't be a good choice?

(if my ex is reading this, she needn't bother to advise me on that question)
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:04 PM
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From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
FWIW, I am buying the Eagle 5.85" length H-beam rods for my 395 cu in project,,, part # CRS5850B3D.

I am looking to make 450Ft-lbs of torque minimum or 400HP. Also, nitrious or an SC might go on the motor next year.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:29 PM
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by 88tbi4x4
My guess is that these are all good rods.
And with each, as the price goes up, you get added features.
I edited in to the original question that I might use nitrous, or possibly other power adder.

Can anyone give any reasons why any one of these rods wouldn't be a good choice?
Power adder or not, any one set of the rods you've picked out will work great (in a 500 +/- hp motor).

The only gripe (I know of) that people have is with the Eagles not being American made.They feel that because they're not made in the USA that they are some how inferior.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:44 PM
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
[QUOTE]Originally posted by doc

[B]FWIW, I am buying the Eagle 5.85" length H-beam rods for my 395 cu in project,,, part # CRS5850B3D.

Just wondering if you've looked at the Eagle featherweight H beams?
At first the cost sort of scared me off, then I looked at the weight savings, and they're 110 grams less. That adds up to 2 lbs! per set.
That seems like it could be a noticable difference.
Just thought I'd throw that in....

And thanks for the replies

Last edited by Streetiron85; Jan 24, 2004 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 02:25 PM
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From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
No I did not even know that they exist. I'll check it out, but if they are light weight, then what effect does that have on reliability?
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 02:41 PM
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by doc
No I did not even know that they exist. I'll check it out, but if they are light weight, then what effect does that have on reliability?
Most manufacturers/machinists will remove as much weight as they can from places that won't effect strength.

If you go with the lightest pistons you can find/afford it will ease alot of the force that would be placed on a weak rod. Plus it's well accepted that before you start makeing the crank lighter and start going with lighter rods you should go with lighter pistons first (i.e it's not a good idea to use a cast crank, light weight or stock rods, and then top them off with some heavy TRW or otherwise pistons).

Last edited by SOLID LIFTER; Jan 24, 2004 at 02:45 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:41 PM
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Thanks for the insight S.L.
Originally posted by doc
No I did not even know that they exist. I'll check it out, but if they are light weight, then what effect does that have on reliability?
Some links:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=8085
http://www.dyno-flo.com/proddetail.a...340FWT&from=47

So I'm guessing that the 395 is 3.875" stroke x 4.030 bore?
And a 5.85" rod with a piston of 1.230" comp ht. goes with that?
Mebbe that's something I should look into ....
But where did you find the piston?
Or are you using a 1.25" comp ht piston with a .055" gasket?

Last edited by Streetiron85; Jan 24, 2004 at 04:51 PM.
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