What should I check?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, LA
Car: 91 Trans Am Convertible
Engine: 300 HP 350 CI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Drums?
What should I check?
I haven't had this car long enough to get the bugs worked out. It gives a code 32 and another code which is the o2 sensor. It has driven great for the month I have had it. It would surge slightly at steady speed until the SES light came on, then no problem. Now I'm getting vibration at lower rpms which goes away if you get on the gas. I also have a rough idle which comes and goes. When you turn the key on there is hesitation before the starter turns. The car shifts very hard, but doesn't accelerate nearly as fast as it did when I bought it. The rpms go up higher before a shift, but it's not going faster just hitting harder.
This post is probably just a fart in the wind, but I need all the help I can get and don't want to start tearing into things that don't need to be fixed. If anybody has any suggestions let me know. This is a great car and I expect a few bugs with 90,000+ miles on it. Thanks for any help.
This post is probably just a fart in the wind, but I need all the help I can get and don't want to start tearing into things that don't need to be fixed. If anybody has any suggestions let me know. This is a great car and I expect a few bugs with 90,000+ miles on it. Thanks for any help.
91,
I think I mentioned it before, but in case I didn't...
Treat any newly acquired vehicle like you've resurrected it from the junk yard. You must assume that NO maintenance has been done. Start with all fluids and filters. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc.
Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, oxygen sensor, etc.
Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.
Once you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not.
As a general hint, it always helps to include the year/model/engine/fuel system information of the vehicle in question, since there were numerous variations across the ThirdGen years.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts
I think I mentioned it before, but in case I didn't...
Treat any newly acquired vehicle like you've resurrected it from the junk yard. You must assume that NO maintenance has been done. Start with all fluids and filters. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc.
Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, oxygen sensor, etc.
Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.
Once you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not.
As a general hint, it always helps to include the year/model/engine/fuel system information of the vehicle in question, since there were numerous variations across the ThirdGen years.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, LA
Car: 91 Trans Am Convertible
Engine: 300 HP 350 CI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Drums?
Thanks for the reply Vader. I have scoured the archives and just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. The vibration is what has me worried. I knew the 02 and probably the egr were bad when I bought it, but in a matter of days it has went from running perfectly to acting like my 79 Z28.
I thought I had added that it's a tpi 305 in a 91 TA but I guess I didn't.
I thought I had added that it's a tpi 305 in a 91 TA but I guess I didn't.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
The shifting taking longer, and getting harder, may be a simple TV cable adjustment. Check the Tech section for "how to".
Code 32 is MAP? ALong with maybe rich exhaust as the O2 code? Hmnn, just a hunch but those two codes together, along with less perofrmance, could indicate a restricted exhaust system, while you're following Vader's advice and changing the O2 sensor, may want to check the back pressure while your there.
Code 32 is MAP? ALong with maybe rich exhaust as the O2 code? Hmnn, just a hunch but those two codes together, along with less perofrmance, could indicate a restricted exhaust system, while you're following Vader's advice and changing the O2 sensor, may want to check the back pressure while your there.
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