How do I adjust Valve Lash?
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
How do I adjust Valve Lash?
I have been hearing a loud ticking coming from the engine for quite a while now. i always thought it was an exhuast leak. Well after about two months of searching for a leak i've come to the conclusion that there is none. A friend suggestion it might be valve lash (which i hadn't even thought of), and the noise does seem to be coming from under the valve covers, so how do i check this this, and fix it? what tools will i be needing? you rhelp is greatly appreciated...
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remove valve cover, with engine running, loosen a rocker nut untill you hear it "ticking" tighten untill it goes away and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. then move on to the next valve. it's messy because of all the oil.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
If you don't want to get oil everywhere, go the the junkyard and get a set of cheap stamped steel valve covers and cut the tops off. Put them on temporarily while you lash the valves and put your regular covers back on when you're done.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
wow, that's a great idea!! there jsut happens to be on old camaro with a complete engine sitting in the local yard too, thanks for that suggestion, and keep em coming
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 82 T/A WS7
Engine: Pontiac 400
Transmission: Muncie 4-speed
You need a 9/16 deep socket with a 2-3 inch extention. Same as Ede with the exception of
3/4 turn is too much. Use 1/4 turn and possibly 1/2 turn as a maximum. I'd reccomend poly lock nuts to keep them from loosining again. Also, when you find the noisy one, turn the car off, count the number of turns taking the nut off, pull the push rod out and roll it on a flat surface to check if it's bent, and check the rocker for an oblonged hole or damage. If there is rocker damage, blow through the push rod, if it's pluged, there's your problem.
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Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
72 Vista Cruiser 455
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3/4 turn is too much. Use 1/4 turn and possibly 1/2 turn as a maximum. I'd reccomend poly lock nuts to keep them from loosining again. Also, when you find the noisy one, turn the car off, count the number of turns taking the nut off, pull the push rod out and roll it on a flat surface to check if it's bent, and check the rocker for an oblonged hole or damage. If there is rocker damage, blow through the push rod, if it's pluged, there's your problem.
------------------
Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
72 Vista Cruiser 455
90 Olds Trofeo
80 K-10 w/snow plow
Painter @ Chevy dealer
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Originally posted by ede:
remove valve cover, with engine running, loosen a rocker nut untill you hear it "ticking" tighten untill it goes away and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. then move on to the next valve. it's messy because of all the oil.
remove valve cover, with engine running, loosen a rocker nut untill you hear it "ticking" tighten untill it goes away and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. then move on to the next valve. it's messy because of all the oil.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
vader,
how much would the oil deflector things be? and high is to high to rev with them?
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how much would the oil deflector things be? and high is to high to rev with them?
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
It shouldn't matter "how high is to high to rev" you are only adjusting the rockers, not making a 1/4 mile pass. You shouldn't even touch the gas. Idle will do just fine.
1/4 turn is not enough, but do definatly look for the source of the problem. It may just a backed off nut, or it could be deeper (bad lifter, bent pushrod, bad rocker, etc...)
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1/4 turn is not enough, but do definatly look for the source of the problem. It may just a backed off nut, or it could be deeper (bad lifter, bent pushrod, bad rocker, etc...)
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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
I agree with GMTech, give them more than 1/4 turn or you'll hear alot of tapping (not to be confused with ticking fuel injectors) because they're too loose. Most sources I have read say 3/4 to 1 full turn; just don't overdo it. I would go at least 1/2.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
thanks for everyones help, this weekend id the first time im gonna have to get into it though, i'm not doing any serious damage driving it like this am i?
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 0
From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
Supreme Member
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Posts: 2,767
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
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Transmission: Pick
P.S. go the 3/4-1 full turn, but do it slowly, you need to let the lifter "bleed down". If you turn it to fast, you will hold the valve off the seat momentarily.
------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The best way is to find zero lash as ede describes for all of them, which is the point at which they quit ticking, but don't put any further preload on them as you are adjusting them. Then after you've zero-lashed all 16 of them, turn the engine off and go around the motor and put your choice of preload on them all. That way you don't stall the motor while tightening them. I usually use about ½ turn past zero so that they stay within their range for a good while. The least amount possible past zero is best for extended high-RPM use as this limits the lifter's ability to "pump up" since they're already pumped up as far as they can go. For street use this is not a good idea though.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
Ok, so lets just make sure i got this straight. With old covers with the tops cut off, start the motor, and loosen a rocker until it ticks, then tighten it until it goes away, and repeat for all 16 rockers. then shut the motor off and go back around and tighten each bolt an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn. is this right???
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Thread Starter
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
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