I have an 8 month old MAF sensor that is now spewing a 34. I have checked EVERYTHING I can think of. It has a perfect seal..I know there arent any air leaks..I just bought a new ECM..I have plenty of oil pressure..it's not the sending unit. What is the problem here?? Why does this 500 dollar sensor suck so much *** ?? I have never heard any praise to a MAF aside from it responding to mods well.I shouldn't have to switch to a Wells but that is what I am going to do..Is there some trick unbeknownst to me to maintaining an operational MAF? I am seriously pissed off at this point. Please help..

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17

 

How do you know for sure its the MAF sensor itself?

P.S. and everybody wonders why I used a Speed Density setup for my TPI retrofit.

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen


ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE

[This message has been edited by GMTech (edited February 04, 2001).]

 

Yarn,

Have the MAF power and burnoff relays been checked/replaced?

Another factor that affects the ECM's expectation of a given range of MAF signals is the TPS position and engine RPM. Is the TPS adjusted dead on 0.54VDC at idle?

Is the idle minimum air position set correctly?

Are there any other vacuum leaks, like the PCV breather tube, EGR, brake booster, gaskets, etcetera?

Is the PROM correct for the engine? I noticed that your signature lists a HyperTech. Do you still have the original PROM to try in its place? (I had a less-than-stellar experience with a HyperScrap PROM in my '86.)

Check these out, then get back with the data.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited February 04, 2001).]

 

after you check the relays, tps and connections, if you need a maf, i have a high flow thick filmed borg warner maf sensor,, if you want it email me with an offer

 

I have replaced the Burnoff Relay, I beleive the TPS is correct..I had a tough time reading the voltage..I was using paper clips. I removed the MAF Power relay(I think) and it gave me a code 33. Does this rule out the relay? I wasn't aware that having vacuum leaks elsewhere could set a 34..It runs diferently when the code is set. Like it idles rougher and it takes a second longer to start..I have that stock PROM..I hope that's not it though. It went away for like 100 starts..now it comes back every 10 starts.

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3:08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17

 

Yarn,

Removing the relay and setting a DTC doesn't mean that the realy is good. Since you have a newly replaced MAF burnoff relay, exchange it with the MAF power relay. If the DTC changes from a '33/34' to a '36' (or vice-versa) the relay is probably bad.

An intermittent contact at the relay can be a real problem to diagnose, so the problem might not not appear right away. You said it occurs about once every ten starts, so give it some time. For ten bucks, I'd be tempted to just replace the relay, but it might be better to let the old one prove itself faulty in the burnoff circuit so that you can be more certain that it was the problem.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I know how to solve your problem, but I can't tell
you since you might use the information illegally..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Hmm..your saying setting a 33 doesn't mean the relay is good? We'll that changes everything..I hope so very much that it's just the power relay..I can tell when the SES light is gonna come one..when all is well it starts after like about 1.5 seconds of cranking. When the SES light is gonna come on, it takes about 2.5 seconds to start. It's really easy to tell. Does this still sound like the relay? Thanks alot Vader. Hey, are you available for hire? Seriously..I'd a million times rather have you help me work on my car than any other mechanic.

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3:08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17