The goal is to beat a 2000 Trans Am, the really nice $36,000 model.

I believe this car has about 325 rear wheel horses.

Now, the car I'm going to have will be an '88 IROC powered by an L98. I'll have roughly $2000-$2500 to spend on upgrades and I'd like to avoid using nitrous, here is what I'm considering:

First off, the intake and plenum are going to be ported to match high flow TPI runners from SLP. I'll also get a cold air induction kit from SLP.

After that I'll buy the 1-3/4" headers that SLP makes for the car, this will be followed up with a 3" Flowmaster cat-back system. Now here is my question, will I be able to ditch my catalynic converters?

After this comes a camshaft upgrade and this is where it gets tricky. I'm going to have to stick with stock heads for budjet reasons, is there any way to get more lift out of your heads? High ratio roller rockers perhaps? If there is no way to get more lift I'll go with a Comp Cams Magnum camshaft, new timing chain, and most likely new lifters.

Perhaps after all these upgrades are purchased I'll get the crank reground, the rods refreshed, and have the block bored and filled with Keith Black 10:1 pistons. I'll also look at a new MSD ignition system. I highly doubt I'll have the money for this however.

Finally, after all those upgrades are completed will I need to have the computer reprogramed, if so, how must does this cost?

Any help is appreciated.



[This message has been edited by StCr19 (edited February 12, 2001).]

 

Your quickest way of beating him w/o a power adder is to not eliminate the consideration of some new heads or porting your stockers with your mods. I don't think the cam, intake and exhaust alone will do it for you. I don't see why you can't do heads, cam, exhaust and intake for around $2500 if you buy the right equipment.

 

Yeah, I guess you're right.

Maybe GM Highperformance Fast Burn heads?

 

Just put together a decent 383 with 1.75" headers, and that would be more than enough.
My 383 cost $2500 for me to build.


ODB



------------------
*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305 with iron #416 heads,
383 with aluminum TFS heads,
Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, Vigilante 2400 lockup converter, 3.25:1 Ford 9" rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, sometimes advertised at 216/219 @.050 112-LSA .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. Using Harland Sharp 1.65:1 roller rockers. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch. SouthSide machine subframe connectors, SSM lift-bars, Moroso 4" underdrive crank pulley.

N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

 

I agree with everyone else HEADS are a must. AFR are excellent street heads that can get you 400h.p. out the box with the right setup. You could port your own heads but you will still be limited. Here a "budget buildup" that might work for you.

Sportman II heads............750-800
LT-4 hot cam.................175-190
Edelbrock TPI base...........350-425
SLP runners..................200-250
SLP 1.75" headers............400-450
Thats 1875-2000 depending on where you buy your parts

Or wait for the release of the Vortec TPI intake combined with Vortec heads a 212/218 roller cam with lift below .5 to handle the weak springs on those heads and SLP runners ported with SLP headers you should be able to run alongside a 2000 T/A but you're not going to look as pretty :-)

 

Toss in a Vigilante torque converter on top of GTA's list and don't forget some attention to the fuel injectors and computer so you won't run lean. You'll spank 'em then! Or you can ax the fuel injection and take ODB's advice since you should have no trouble squeezing some serious ponies out of a 383.