I am about to buy an '87 IROC with a bad motor. I have a stout 350 with older 'double hump' 186 heads and custom ground roller cam/rockers, forged 10:1 pistons, etc in my garage. I'm going to put it in the IROC. I have several questions and would appreciate all the help I can get:
1) Will the (basically stock) 700R4 (shift kit, 2600 stall, rebuilt 8k miles ago, B&M Megashifter) handle the approximately 400 hp my engine produces?
2) I found a post about running a carb on a tpi car, so I think that answers those questions.
3) The car will come with TES headers. I heard these will work on my older (iron) heads. True?
4) Car has a cat and 3" cat-back. I'd like to get an off-road Y pipe to replace cat portion. Any exist? Any used for sale?
5) I drive a 98 Formula LS1 with NOS and other goodies. I am running an exhaust cutout (helps when on the bottle). Anyone doing this on 3rd Gens?
6) Car has 3.27 rear (supposedly Borg Warner). Should I go with better posi and 4.11 gears?
NOTE: I don't care about emissions or street driveability or mileage. Car will be primarily drag, with occassional (OK frequent) street action, but not a daily driver.
7) Would a fiberglass hood save a lot of weight? What do they cost? Any available used?
8) Is 90/10 front shocks, remove front sway, move battery to back, replace LCAs, install SFCs about all I need to do to hook well with Nitto Drag radials? What other drag-specific (yet cost efficient) suspension mods should I make?
9) Besides removing AC, front sway bar, running front skinnies . . . any other reasonable-cost weight saving tips? Would removing most of interior save much weight? Is there ant fiberglass/lexan-windowed rear decks available?
10) I do not have a carb or distributor for my engine right now. I'm not that skilled at carb adjustments, nor distributor advance adjustments. What carb would you recommend? Can I buy a pre-custom-curved distributor (I can provide cams specs, car weight, trans type, gearing, etc.)?
11) What should I know about this swap? (i.e. motor mounts? will 700R4 just bolt up? Any clearance issues? Any electrical issues? Will I need to remove in-tank elec. fuel pump and install a new pickup and external electric pump? Any prticular vacuum concerns?, etc.)
I know this is a bunch of questions that have probably been asked and answered a hundred times somewhere on this board, but I am hoping someone here has the time, knowledge and paticience to help a new guy out!

My sons and I have had/raced: a 455 (Olds) powered (500 hp) '80 Trans Am; a VERY stout, highly modified 5.0 '92 Mustang GT; a 95 LT1 powered Z28 (for about a month before totalling that one); a '72 Nova (with the above-mentioned engine in it); and my '98 Formula LS1 with NOS . . . But we're new to 3rd Gens and could use some advice.

Thanks in advance!!!!! - Leo



[This message has been edited by Leo (edited March 14, 2001).]

 

I'll throw a couple of answers out there...

• 1. Yes, within reason. Depending on the cam though, that converter may or may not be appropriate.
• 3. Yes. Same as above: the TES has small primaries, so it may or may not be the best choice for your combo.
• 5. Yes. Same as any other carbed small block. Obviously nitrous has been around alot longer than LS1s!
• 6. The highest ratio for that rear that I know of is 3.70. You can buy a 12-bolt or a F*rd 9" that will bolt into the car, but they're not cheap.
• 7. 30 or 40 lbs. Look in Jegs or Summit or talk to your local speed shop.
• 8. LCA attachment point lowering brackets which correct the geometry problem created by the frame end of the LCA being lower than the rear end end; and a good aftermarket torque arm like the Spohn. Neither of those is even drag-specific to the point that they compromise other aspects of the car.
• 9. A couple hundred pounds. I don't know if there's a Lexan rear window avaliable; if there is, that would be a huge weight loss.
• 10. A Holley 4777. Call Performance Distributors in Memphis (901 area code), give them your engine specs, gears, weight, etc. like you would for a custom converter, and they will build you a custom distributor.

Maybe someone else will chime in with other opinions too, there's plenty of people on this board doing basically exactly what you are that have good ideas.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports


[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited March 14, 2001).]

 

4) Flowmaster sells the only one. It's about $75.. check the Summit Catalog it's in there.

 

Thanks, RB & Mike! I have a pretty good idea now about what I want to do, in what sequence, and the budget for each 'phase' of my project. This will be my first hot rod (of MANY) that won't have to also serve as a daily driver. That makes things a whole lot easier. My sons and I should acquire the car soon and begin working on it. I have to compliment this site on it's technical quality as well as the calibre of people it attracts. I frequent the LS1.com site because of my 98 Formula (UserName there is also Leo and my mods can be seen on my signature there). The Internet is the hot rodder's greatest tool yet. Where else can one tap into the collective intelligence and experience of such a great community of folks with a common interest and willingness to share? Is this a great country or what? - Thanks again! - Leo

 

Never mind I found it. Sorry moderators.
John

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82 Firebird,408,Dart Iron Eagle 215's,Cam 229/239, .498/.520,TH350 Tranny, 750 Speed Demon carb, Hooker Headers(I.E. POS) Manual steering, Also a cowl for the big hole in the hood.
Shooting for low 12's.
Check out my birds new home.

[This message has been edited by spud (edited March 15, 2001).]

 

Spud - I got your post - it's under Racing/Autocross forum. Sorry for posting this in different forums, but I didn't know where all you smart guys hung out!. Thanks again for the excellent response! - Leo