Ok so I figured out that I didn't have enough clearance between my rod bolts and block so I pulled everything back apart and did what I thought was enough grinding and then put about 80% of it back together. Wouldn't you know I didn't grind enough!!
So here's my q's.....I'm grinding at the pan rails and the bottoms of the cylinders....how concerned should I be with hitting a water jacket? Also what can I use besides just a hose to make sure I get all of the little metal specs out of the engine (especially the cam bearings)?

Finally, does anyone know what size tap I need for the knock sensor hole in the block? I got paint in mine and need to clean it up a bit.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

no water jackets in the pan rail or the bottom of the cylinders ,where you should be grinding. i've used music wire crimped in a piece of copper tubing as a gage to check clearance liek this, works great and it lets you check and not have your hands in the way.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

What ede said. I've used strips of sheet aluminum also.

Personally I prefer to do all the grinding with the cam bearings out of it. That way no metal shavings can get into the passages behind them.

¼" pipe

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Ok cool....atleast I don't have to pray the whole time I'm grinding to not hit a water jacket. I've been using a cheap feeler gauge that bends slightly to check my clearances. I'm going to make sure I get enough material out this time so I can leave the damn thing assembled!!
I wish I could do it with the cam bearings out, but I don't know how to remove, or reinstall them. Don't you need some special tools for this??

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

Paul,

You can buy, rent, or make a puller/installer to remove and install the bearings. The shells are different sizes, and must be oriented correctly to assure proper oil flow. The puller is essentially a threaded rod with shouldered drifts that fit the shells to either pull them out or into position through the cam holes in the ends of the case. If yours are already installed, I would try to cover or seal them as best you can, then clean thoroughly afterward.

You're probably more careful that I am, but the first time I installed a set ot cam bearings I ended up buying replacements. (It's very important to get them started squarely in the bores or they'll distort and crush easily - Duh!) My home made drifts didn't have an adequate lead-in shoulder. Well, at least now I know.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

right... when you're grinding, you can use masking tape over the holes in the bearings and the distributor area and the oil pump boss and everywhere else that internal oil passages are exposed, to keep the chips from getting up in there. That's the next best thing to a total disassembly, blast-out, and re-build-up.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports