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Rocker Arms FAQ

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Old May 17, 2004 | 11:12 PM
  #1  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Rocker Arms FAQ

i need just a few questions answered....ive got the 081 casting heads and will port these out eventully to put on my 350. i would like to upgrade rocker arms to say 1.6 alumnium roller rockers...THESE now to get a little more power until the 350 gets built. do i need self aligning or non self aligning? which stud size will fit? will 1.6's fit under my valve covers? do i need to buy screw in studs? and is there anything else i need to do to get those to work or can i just install them when i get them and be fine??????

i would really appreciate any replies as i am trying to learn, just like most of you had to at one point
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Old May 17, 2004 | 11:46 PM
  #2  
owned's Avatar
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1. Aluminum roller rockers are generally not recommended on a street motor. They are considered time bombs that will fail eventually under regular street use.


2. You need self aligning rockers. One more reason those won't work. Your other option is to remove the pressed in studs on your heads and tap them for screw-in, and then run guideplates. This would probably be cheaper if you have the heads off the car.

3. You need 3/8" stud.

4. Usually not. You may get them to fit if you remove some bracing, otherwise you will need taller valvecovers.

5. You do not need to buy screw in studs. Depending on your cam lift, valvesprings, and cam choice, it may be a good idea. Also refer to #2

6. I would stongly recommend you look at your valvespring situation. I would be hesitant to install something that will increase lift on older valvesprings, as the change in operating parameters can cause failure. Also, stock valvesprings really suck ***, and it can be a good time to change them with something that has *slightly* more spring pressure. I would say if you have more than 50k miles on the springs to change them. Otherwise I would go either way.
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Old May 18, 2004 | 01:33 AM
  #3  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
owned is correct. Aluminum rockers CAN be dangerous to run on the street as their fatigue strength is relativly low compared to that of steel rockers. I have heard of the Proform brand snapping due to fatigue as early as 30,000 miles. There are probably instances of them failing even sooner. Be warned cautious about rocker arm choice. The only aluminum rocker arms i would trust are Scorpions.

Assuming the valve springs are in good order and strong enough to handle the lift, do you have enough clearance to run them? Is there enough room before coil bind is reached? Is there enough room between the retainer and the guide boss? What valve springs are you running at the moment?

For the best 1.6 ratio self aligning rockers that can be bought as a budget piece and have a good life span, i would look into the Comp Cams Magnum rocker arms. <A HREF="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D1418%2D16">CCA-1418-16</A> is what you would need. They are the 1.6 versions for the center bolt design heads. Those particular ones are the 3/8 studded with the self aligning design. Also, as owned mentioned, another option is replacing the pull-out studs and replacing them with guideplates and screw in studs. Then you can run non-self aligning models. But for most street conditions, with a more mild lift (generally under .480" @ the valve) and spring pressures more on the milder side as well, the factory studs can be left in.
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