Well, like the title says....

My car just turned 53000 miles last week. It's an 88 T/A 350TPI

I did my oil change to synthetic 3000 miles ago (after I got it home from the states) and changed the oil yesterday with the same 10w30 (left the filter from last change). Should I be running 5w30 on this engine?? My friend who owns an 88 camaro says he runs 10w30 because it coats better or something.

I had the rotor cap, rotor, plug wires and spark plugs replaced. The plug wires I changed from the original stock ones to Neihoff 8mm, and the plugs are Bosch Platinum +4's. The MAF was replaced to an original Bosch reman'd one (replaced the "performance" one as the goober that owned it last used 2 inch self tapping wood screws to mount it to the radiator bracket). Replaced the MAF burn off and MAF relay. Replaced the original exhaust pipe between the Cat and muffler (the weld seam melted through over 16 years). Replaced the back break pads from the old asbestos to carbon metallic. The front ones are still asbestos (still have 80% life left).

New tires also Cooper Zeon ZPTs 245/50VR16's all around, again, same goober had put H rated 225/60R16's on it and they were rubbing the inner wheel wells on the front because of the height causing the car to shudder and clunk and make all sorts of BAD noises when you had to turn out of or into a parking spot.

It idles a bit rough sometimes, has problems starting other times where it takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking without gas to catch and 5 seconds or so to catch with a little bit of pressure on the gas peddal. Im thinking it has to do with my fuel system pressure because I hear the fuel pump constantly. However when it hums for a few seconds and clicks, then you turn the engine over it catches and starts right away. However, after leaving it sit for a while it spits out a cloud of blue grey smoke just on startup but it goes away after about 5-10 seconds at idle(this is even after sitting in the parking lot for about 2 hours)

Im just looking for some normal replacements/checks you do at 50000 miles to keep the car in 100% running order. Im looking at replacing the O2 sensor with a new Bosch one I picked up for 30 bucks(canadian).

Any ideas of what should be done, fluid wise, parts etc I would love to know.

Thanks for any help!

 

Lose the +4 spark plugs; put in regular ACs, or AC RapdiFires if you just really want the added lifetime (that's what you get, not added function or performance) of precious metals. This board is littered with tales of people who have spent the giga$$$$ on those plugs and had either no benefit at all, or trouble, out of them.

Use 10W-30 oil, preferably synthetic as you mentioned.

You should replace the O2 sensor; fuel filter; belts & hoses; coolant and thermostat; and rear end fluid (again, use synthetic, and make sure you use the additive if it's a posi as it probably is). For the hard start problem, your injectors are most likely the cause; send your injectors to Rich at www.cruzinperformace.com for cleaning and flow-matching. One or more of them might need to be replaced to fix the leak-down that's causing the starting issue, but he might have some used ones laying around that he can sell you real cheap.

 

http://www.cruzinperformance.com

poor "n" was left out

 

I don't suppose it would be easy to check the life of the hoses when they have the steel braiding over almost every one of them...

I haven't really had any problems with the +4 plugs so far, but whens a good time to change them as I already spent the 80 bucks on the set of 8 (Canadian tire special that day 20% off if you buy gas at the gas bar).

Same guy with the 88 camaro said you don't need an additive for the positrac if you are using synthetic oil in the rear end. Is it just something you should do or something that is recommended but not needed?

Far as I know the belt isn't cracked or worn looking in any way, however it does look a bit glazed (shiny).

How difficult is it to check for leaky injectors? Again, guy with 88 camaro had bad experience with his 350TPI. He took the top off the engine and ended up using a broom handle to pry the fuel rail off breaking the broom handle numerous times before the rail came loose to check his injectors. I cant access the web link that was posted im assuming due to the defence network's firewall blocking my connections out.

I was also told on another post the blue grey smoke could be due to worn valve rings (blue grey indicates its burning oil). How detrimental is this to the safe/proper operation of the engine?

I found one of the receipts of the previous owner stating that he had replaced the thermostat to a 170 degree one (theres also a tell tail sign of self made orange gasket present around it). Would it be recommended to go back up to the stock thermostat of 190 degrees?

As for the coolant, it definately needs to be changed but it has a rather brownish colour (looks very dirty) to it looking in the coolant reservoir. I thought coolant(antifreeze) was supposed to be neon green in colour. I know when I drain the coolant i'll be doing the throttle body bypass because the engine stays stupid hot for hours. Even in traffic at idle it likes to hover around the 230F mark for temperature. Though soon as im on the highway it stays at 180-190. Could this be due to the thermostat not working right or just the normal engine design(i know they are built to run at 220).

Anyhow I appreciate the insights! More ideas are appreciated if they are needed.

Thanks

 

You need the additive; with the possible exception of Amsoil lube. That I am told has its own. However, the additive is a friction modifier for the clutches for the posi, and the lube being synthetic doesn't change the need for the additive, by itself. The rear will still chatter and groan when going around corners, without it.

Are the hoses steel-braided, or are they just regular hoses with the "decorative" dead weight draped on them? if they're that, then I'd suggest getting rid of it, and changing the hoses.

THe throttle body coolant bypass won't affect the running temp of the engine.

Your description of the engine temp is perfectly normal as far as that goes. The factory fan setting is for the fan to come on when engine temp reaches about 230°, and go back off when the temp comes down to about 205°. The thermostat doesn't affect this. Once the car is moving, the coolant temp should rapidly come down to the thermostat temp, whatever that is. Based on where you are, the stock 190° thermostat would be fine. Just put a new one in when you do the coolant flush and change the belts and hoses.

The smoke and hard starting are due to one or more injector(s) leaking into the intake, and flooding the engine. I wouldn't worry about the rings, or the valve guide seals, just yet.

 

The "steel braided hoses" were decorative and put on when the last owner bought it 9 years ago.

As for the injectors, I was looking at some Accel ones as I had suspected that perhaps some were failing or have become broken. What would the recommendation be on replacing the injectors? Go OEM or aftermarket?

Im also getting Krown rust proofing done on it tomorrow as it has never been undercoated or rust proofed.

Thanks for the insights and i'll be looking at doing most of this fun stuff this Victoria day weekend
(Gotta love Canadian Holidays!)

 

The Accel ones would be fine, except that they will cost about 2-3 times as much as getting yours serviced. Just a detail.

So the hoses are 9 years old? I don't think you should even have to ask whether those need to be replaced..... that's a time bomb with a REAL SHORT fuse.