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???'s about 383 info

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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 06:50 PM
  #1  
StylnCamaro's Avatar
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From: PA
???'s about 383 info

I have a built 350 with all the suspension goodies blah blah blah, but i just spun a rod bearing and while it was apart I want to build a 383. Now I will be running a 100 shot of nitrous and currently have hyper speed pro pistions and a a steel crank. Now do I need a totally forged 383 kit to be safe on the nitrous or do the pistons and rods only need to be forged? Also what is the effect of nitrous on Hyper pistons versus forged and does anyone know where I can find a kit under 1500 of all forged?

here is my readers ride

My car

there is fixed it...100 shot

Last edited by StylnCamaro; Jun 5, 2004 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 08:07 PM
  #2  
Dr.NickRiviera's Avatar
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From: dallas,tx
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: tree-fiddy
Transmission: 700r4
1000 shot, might look into titanium everything.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 11:18 PM
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
The pistons are the only thing i would be overly worried about. factory rods can be re-used as can the crank. Ive jetted a 125 shot on forged slugs, factory PM rods, and a nodular crank.

At the very least, upgrade the rod bolts to ARP wave-loc series. You will need to have the rods resized as well.

However, if you are hell-bent on replacing the bottom end, there are various levels of 'forged.' The top-of-the-line forged is 4340. Nice, yes. Overkill for just a 100 shot, probably. Similarly, there is, i believe 4130. Not as strong as 4340, but still stronger than stock. 4130 is also cheaper than 4340. There is also a 5140, i think. cheaper and a tad weaker than 4130, but still stronger than factory. Both Eagle and Scat offer I-beam rods in most of the above materials. An effective rod, if you do plan on upgrading, would be the Eagle SIR series rods or Scat, im sure has an equivalent. The SIR rod is 5140. They are good to roughly 500hp. Eagle and Scat make good budget replacement cranks. Eagle has the ESP series (cast steel) and Scat i think is the 9000 (high strenght nodular iron, i believe). Both of these are good to roughly the same aount as the rods. Summit, Jegs, eBay, and several other places all sell kits that include the crank, rods, rod bolts, bearings, pistons, and sometimes the balancer and flexplate. Depending on what parts you get, they can be had for under $1000

As for the pistons themselves, nitrous has no effects on pistons directly. However, there are negative drawbacks. Running nitrous requires messing with the timing. That always spawns the possibility for detonation. While hypereutectic pistons are harder than forged, they are still cast. Forged pistons have a much higher resistance to detonation as they will deform a bit before structural failure. Hyper pistons, because they are harder than forged, dont have the 'elastic' tendencies that forged slugs do. Therefore, in the presence of detonation they just tend to shatter. Forged slugs are just overall stronger than hyper pistons.

Last edited by Stekman; Jun 5, 2004 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 11:38 PM
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Car: Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
stock components can handle a 150 shot without a problem. if you're going all out with strongest of the strong components just up the jets for a 250 shot, make sure your drivetrain can handle it and get a nitrous controller.
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Old Jun 6, 2004 | 02:42 PM
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StylnCamaro's Avatar
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From: PA
since mine is a 89 iroc do I have a 1 piece rear seal or a 2 piece?
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Old Jun 6, 2004 | 06:05 PM
  #6  
89RsPower!'s Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
if its the origional engine its a 1 piece rms block
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Old Jun 6, 2004 | 10:46 PM
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Car: Z28
Engine: LS1
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yep, but GM has an adapter so you can run older style cranks in a late model block. I think it's $120, not sure about the part #, but check it out, I know it exists.
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