how do i bore a small-block 350 4 bolt maine with out screwing it up. i want to bore it 30thosands.

 

Most people take the block to a machine shop and have them do it. The tools needed are not something most have in thier garage. It runs about 8.00 a hole here.

 

ok thank u. i'll take it to the machine shope tomorrow. thanks
:lala:
how much of an inch is the gap in the heads 0.08 something like that. i don't know really how to rebuild an engine but i have enough knowleg to do it. please give info for more knoleg? thank u.

 

you sure you have enough knowleg (sic) to rebuild anything? there is no gap in the heads .08 or otherwise.

 

yes there is. it's for the valves. u don't want to much of a gap. it's whene the valves open.

 

No. Unless you are running 13:1 compression domed pistons, with small chambers you dont have any worries. There is no "gap". The issue doesnt come up until you have a small chamber, tall piston, and lots of lift. You definately arent ready to build an engine. IF you dont know about boring, bearing tolerances, chamber sizes in relation to pistons and compression, you will surely screw the thing up. Do yourself a favor, and have the bottom end assembled. Find a good shop that will let you watch, and learn all you can. Its how most people here learned, watching.

 

it's called piston to valve clearance and in no way resembles a gab, real or otherwise. i stand by what i said earlier.

 

don't tell me that i should take my motor to be built. I built a 350 with 30over flat top pistons with a 292 roller cam with fueley heads , highrise intake with a 600 4 barrel eldabrok carb. it runs fine no problems. so don't tell me i should take my motor to someone else u need the help.
all i did is ask what i could do not come here to get bitched at. get told i can't build a motor ****.

 

First, let me welcome you into the fold. Nowthen, where to begin…

As opposed to a big-block 350? Most people bring it to a machine shop, but if you’re hilljack enough, you may want to spend a few hours with some stone and/or dingleberry hones, a drill and the appropriate gauges and tools to measure the bore during and after (you know what those are and have them right?).

No, you really don’t. Not even close to enough to even pick up a wrench to beat your car with.

I will, and am.

Sure you did. And it pulled a 9 sec. pass in the quarter too huh? Let me clue you in to something here… I don’t care and if I were, I’d be unimpressed. Make you feel better now? (also please refer to my second quote, thanks!)

You can do whatever you like, with your own crap and time, but do not come on here and waste my time, this board’s space, nor start trying to call out guys that probably have spun more wrenches already than you ever will in your miserable life.

You have no clue how to spell, nor make coherent sentences. I shudder at your skills in this regard, yet you want to build a motor and show such lack of knowledge that it is appalling. You come off with a huge air of self-righteousness, yet can’t decide whether or not you know how to build a motor. You don’t know common terms for clearances (among other things) and more than likely you have not one of the tools you would need to complete the damn job. Were you planning on just using plastiguage for the clearances? Do your car, the core and everyone here a favor and just pay someone to build and install it.

Oh, and stop trying to bash the guys who have been on here since the beginning, it’s somewhat stupid. They were having a little fun with you and trying to nicely say don’t touch and you got a little hot too soon. We (mostly) all have dicks here, but not very many are, ok?

 

That would be 'gap' old man. Put the glasses back on.

edit:had to un-fix the quote, even my computer knows it's 'gap'.

 

You know, I really meant what I said to be helpful not sarcarstic. You obviously, from your vocabulary alone, do not know enough to do this job on your own. Personally, I dont care if you jack up your engine and it never runs, I was just trying to save you the trouble. Oh. yeah:



Seems as though your information is alittle conflicting. Next time, try not to lie so much.

Yeah, I need the help, because I am the one here that doesnt know how to rebuild my engine. Take a look at the sig troll, you will notice that mine runs **very** well. And I didnt need to call anyone a dick to get it that way.

 

You know I checked your birthday, expecting to see a teenager, and you are only 10 days younger than me. *** help us all. Makes me ashamed to be 24.

 

I don't see why you are getting pissed off crasherboy_6984, you are the one who admitted you didn't know how to rebuild an engine, but yet you have the knowledge to do it. That statement in itself shows that you have no clue what you are doing IMO.

You may have put together the motor you said, but if you did that one then how in the hell do you not know how to rebuild a motor, if you have done one before?? WTF!!!

Take the stuff to a machine shop, have them assemble it, then just throw on the right head gaskets, put on the heads and run with it.

That is what most people do.

The guys who have given you information, and that you have been so kind enough to blast back and forth with have the knowledge that you openly admitted you don't have. They could have let you just take your Sears Drill and try to bore the block yourself, screwing it up in the process... but they didn't, they chimed in to help you out.

Kindly step back and realize that they are trying to help out...

 

sorry people i just don't know how to spell. and i don't know the terms of parts tools or other things i'm sorry
u guys r tyring to help i didn't mean to call anybody a dick or other names. i was looking for help and got a little to hot headed. I AM SORRY. i'll just go away now

 

The point is not for you to go away... just to realize that people are trying to help out and not be *********... There is a lot of knowledge here on this board if you care to take heed to it...

 

I think the problem here lies in misreading. After reading through this myself, I see nowhere in the above posts, short of Devils post, that suggests anything about you taking your engine to the shop.

And I quote:
What LJ is saying is exactly what I have been doing. He's not saying go take your engine to the shop. He is suggesting that you find a machine shop that builds engines, call them up, and ask them if you can sit in and watch them during a rebuild or 3. Not having them rebuild YOUR engine, but rather you watch and gain knowledge so you can better build your own.

There is a lot of knowledge on this site. If you have a question, just ask. I assure you, you won't be the first who has raised a seemingly stupid question.

You may want to try a search also. There have been many 350 rebuilds that have been discussed on this site.

On a side note, that WAS one of the more creative ways I've seen "Edelbrock" spelled.

 

And also get something like this:

http://half.ebay.com/cat/buy/prod.cg...1856&meta_id=1

or rather, a lot like that. In conjuntion with hands on experience, you should be all set.

 

Crasher,

Don't feel too bad. I can't spell either, nor type for that matter (I'm on hour two of this reply already).

No need to go away. Just use the tools available and take away what information you can get.

But getting back to your initial post, is there a need to bore 0.030" oversize due to damage or wear, or are you just looking for more cubes to work with?

 

The cilender walls were scrached.And i'm looking for more horsepower. I got the block back from the shop and they told me they had to resleeve it. Why is that? they told me the sleeves were to far gone but i don't know. The skraches didn't look that deep. What is the torqe of the crank bolts? What is the torqe for the piston bolts? Please tell me. I promise I won't get hot headed. Thank you.

 

if the block needs sleeved then i would look for another block if it were me .....

 

The block needs to be re-sleeved?? That would mean it was sleeved in the first place right? You sure its a standard 350 block?

Maybe they meant to be sleeved for the first time, meaning they can't bored it enough to get the scratches out, thus the could bore it out, put a sleeve in it yada yada yada.

If it comes to that man, just get another block and have work done on it. You will wind up cheaper with another block they don't have to sleeve, than getting that one sleeved.

 

I already got it sleeved and bored. Should I still get anouthere block or keep this one?

 

You are confusing me. If you already ahd it sleeved and bored, then the cylinders are fine, but if you need it done again, get rid of it, and maybe find a new machine shop too. Sleeving is expensive, and you wouldnt be the first person lied to. A friend was told by a shop that it would cost him XX amount to sleeve and bore, he did it, and about 20K miles later found out they shafted him. He didnt need a sleeve, just a bore, there was no sleeve installed, but he still paid for it. If sleeving is an issue, get a different block.

 

buy a manual instead of asking for specs on here. buy the tools to go along with engine assembly. find someone to do it for you or to let you watch, or watch you.

 

Ok... lets step back here and clear up the confusion.

Did you already have the block bored, honed, and all necessary machine work done?

Confusion is coming from this post I believe. Here you make it sound like you took the block to the shop, and they told you they needed to sleeve it... Is that the case and you had them do the work? Or does it still need to be done? Cause here it looks like you are saying it still needs to be done.

I think the main point here is that if the block needs to be sleeved as they said, its not worth using that block. Unless you have already had the work done to it.

MOST iron blocks don't need sleeving. Sleeving is just required when too much has been bored, and it can't be bored any more from what I understand of it. I know mine isn't sleeved, and not many are actual sleeved, they are just bored. I had mine bored .030 at a shop in Nashville, and all the work done, and they were straight forward with me, bu tnot all are that way. The shop may be trying to pull a fast one on you.

 

Do you have a reliable way of checking bearing tolerances? Dont use plastigauage, its only good for a rough estimate. Get the right tools.

 

I got a different block. I have this guy helping me rebuild it. he built his motor for his four wheel drive with 10.1 compretion.
He owns a rebuild shop. He is leting me build mine there and showing me how to at the same time. Thank u guys for the help.

 

no problem from us, its why we hang out here. Glad to hear that you are going that route, its the best way. Soon there will be someone watching you to learn.

 

Maybe somebody will. I've still got alot to learne yet thoe. The motor is going in a 70's nova. It's been fully restored. Thank you again.

 

Hopefully, we're all still learning. Elsewise, we might as well not participate here.

If your friend hits a stumbling block, or if you'd just like to search for different ideas for your build, ask away. There are a lot of tips and tricks than people can forget, or might not do for the average rebuild.

Balancing the rotating assembly is desireable, and not terribly expensive nor difficult if you have the equipment.

A new oil pump with HP relief valve is also desireable, and is only about $40.

Can selection can be tricky. You might get some ideas about what works and what doesn't in various applications.

Also, don't settle for a plain double roller timing set.

And forget about aftermarket chrome timing covers and oil pans unless you want problems later.

If you're planning on new pistons and rods, you might want to ask around here about others' experiences with longer rods, different alloy pistons, different width rings, etc.

You can also tap the same well for ideas about head selection, preparation, and valve work. Some stock heads can be made to work very well, even better than some aftermarket heads.

The SEARCH feature can be a very useful tool for finding much of that information. Try it out. If you don;t find what you're looking for, ask away.

We're all in the same boat.

 

Hell I learn something everyday on this board and many like it around the net. If I wasn't always learning something then this hobby wouldn't be a fun one!!!

 

Thank you all for the info. I got the motor going and it runs nice. the guy that helped me is putting to work to learn more. Thanks again. If I have any qustions I'll ask.

 

The best way to learn!

 

Crasherboy... enjoy the experience and the time helping the guy out. Be sure to soak in all you can. There is never a point of knowing too much IMO...

 

What is the difference between a lt1 350 aand a normale 350?

 

LT1 is a reverse cooling engine. Nothing is really compatible outside of the rotating assembly to a regular sbc. The heads can be modified to fit, at a great cost. The LT1 has more potential in its stock form, I guess you could say.

 

That's cool. We're building one for a 78/79 firebird. The that ownes it got it out of some old mans garage. There's nothing rong with it.

 

Unless you've got some experienced help at hand, I'd avoid the LT1 swap. It takes ALOT of patience to make that swap work, simply because its not a normal small block. Its a "wierd" engine because alot of regular small block parts work on it (ie. headers) but alot of normal small block parts (ie. water pump) will not. Basically, its a very complicated swap when you count that stuff and the computer install.

Just my

 

I'm not doing it my self. The guy that helped me put mine together and is putting me to work is doing it. He's showing me as he builds it. He said that it will stand up and go when he's done.