and does anyone have any figures on the 15th ann ta? like what motor came in the and what rear end , hp and other handy stuff????????????????????

 

do a search for this, you'll get several detailed answers to this (adjusting the valves).

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

You got the 190hp TBI motor in the 15th anniversary model.

As for adjusting your valves, there are two ways to do it. I did mine the way that is outlined first.

The following instructions I got from Phil Parsons, webmaster of The Best Damn Garage On the Net. (http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/)

"The procedures here will be much easier if you rotate the engine to top dead center (TDC) on the #1 cylinder beforehand. There are many ways to do this, but I have found that the easiest way is to remove the #1 spark plug, and stuff a tissue into the hole (no, not ALL the way in). Rotate the engine by hand until the tissue pops out, indicating the compression stroke. Then make sure that the timing mark on the balancer is exactly lined up with "0" on the timing indicator - you will then be exactly on #1 TDC.

1. Most manuals recommend starting at #1 TDC, and then setting the lash for intake valves on cylinder #'s 1, 2, 5, and 7, and the exhaust valves on #'s 1, 3, 4, and 8. Then you rotate the engine 180 degrees, and do the rest. I think that this method is confusing and ineffective. I have found is that an easier way is to follow the firing order, and to do both the intake and exhaust valve lash on each cylinder. In other words, set int and exh on #1, then rotate the engine until #8 is at TDC, and set both of those. Then go on to #4, then #3 - you get the idea. It takes a little longer, but there is FAR less chance of mistakes.

2. Spin the push rod with your fingers, while slowly tightening the rocker arm nut. When the slightest drag is felt on the push rod (in other words when the rocker first rests on the push rod tip), STOP, and then tighten the rocker nut 1 more turn to apply the lifter preload. A common mistake is to tighten the rocker nut until the push rod can't be spun any more - this is incorrect, and can leave the valves stuck wide open, inviting disaster. An easy way to avoid this is to not do it.

NOTE: There is quite a bit of controversy over exactly how much lifter preload should be applied. Most repair manuals specify 1/2 turn. For performance applications, it has been found that 2 turns or sometimes 3 turns are more beneficial. 3 may be a bit too radical for the street, though. In any case, you should make sure to tighten the rocker nuts at least 1 turn.

3. IMPORTANT: If you are doing other work to the engine, make sure that you remember to turn the engine back to #1 top dead center."

The only difference is I only put 1/2 turn past zero lash on mine and I've had no problems.

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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, Rapidfire #2 @ .055", MSD 6AL, 1.6:1 Roller tipped rockers, Homemade AFPR, K&N cone, no airbox, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Descreened MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil, Mobil 1 synth in all but transmission.

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/

 

There was no TBI in 84. The 15th anniversary model was an HO model. Computer controlled Qjet etc. 3.73 gears and posi usually. At least the two I have seen were.

[This message has been edited by Cosmik Debris (edited May 02, 2001).]

 

Well both of us were half right.... there WAS a TBI motor in 84, but it was the 4 banger LQ9, and as you said the 15th ann got the Qjet setup.

 

Cool, that's a good way to settle a disagreement