new cat crank. and clevite bearings. Thrust is .001. I think it should be .002 or .003 for a manual trans

 

my book says .002 to .006 for a SBC, .001 is to tight no doubt. only thing i know is to swap bearings on the thrust.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Did you line up the trust bearings after the crank and main caps were installed? It involves hitting the crankshaft forward in the block, then towards the rear of the block and then forward again. You do this with all the bearings installed but leave the main cap bolts loose. After you hit the crankshaft forward the last time, leave it there and torque the main cap bolts.
Use a rubber mallet also, don't want to ding up a new crank

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-Joseph
ASE Master Automobile Technician
Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet

1967 Camaro (Vortec Heads, GM ZZ4 intake manifold, ZZ4 roller camshaft)
1992 Firebird (Weiler Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, GM ZZ4 Intake, Edelbrock 750, eventually will be Ram-Jet)

 

i did not tap on it with the rear main loose. I did torque 1-4 and then the last one. I am using a dead blow. Its kind of small but it has a rubber end.
Its really free. The crank spins good and you can move it back and forth with your hand. It does not even need the hammer tap.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited May 07, 2001).]

 

If you can't "settle in" the shells and caps as Joseph suggests, you might have to customize the thrust shells a bit. I would avoid grinding the crank if possible. If you have a scraper set and some prussian blue, you can remove a bit of the back side of the thrust faces to gain the extra thou or two.

By "cat crank" did you mean "Scat" crank or "cast" crank? I would allow a bit more clearance on an iron crank than a nodular of forges steel unit, mainly for expansion rates.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

its one of these guys.
http://www.catpep.com/Products/Nodul...Crankshaft.htm