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RPM limit?

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Old May 23, 2001 | 06:17 PM
  #1  
trickfbody's Avatar
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From: Meridian,Idaho,USA
RPM limit?

How Can I tell what the RPM limit for a 350 TPI 5 speed is? Engine has factory hyd roller lifters and a ZZ3 Cam. Engine is rebuilt with all new ARP rod and main bolts and fasteners. Heads are ported and have screw in studs and valve guide plates. Can you float the lifters before any damage is done?
Thanks for any help.
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Old May 23, 2001 | 06:23 PM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If it still has the TPI, that will most likely be enough of a rev limiter that you won't ever bother the bottom end or the valve train, unless of course it still has the stock valve springs, in which case you're on thin ice above about 5000. It makes no difference whether it's in front of a stick or automatic.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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Old May 24, 2001 | 12:58 AM
  #3  
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The RPM limit of your bottom end is probably around 6-6500.
The heads (springs and ports aside) is about the same.
The lifters... I dunno, you didnt specify what kind. Probably 6000 max.
The cam, probably wasting time taking the RPM's past 5500.

Then there is the TPI, like RB said... thats your limiting factor.
Depending on the lifters and springs, I wouldnt take it past 5500, not only is there not much point, the parts may or may not like that much over a longer period of time.
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Old May 24, 2001 | 08:11 AM
  #4  
ede's Avatar
ede
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agreed the tpi will slow you down arounf 5000 then the valve spring are next. the short block should be good to 6500. way back when i was in high school i use to take my 66 L79 327 over 7500 before i shifted, never broke the first part.

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Old May 24, 2001 | 08:45 AM
  #5  
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ede:
way back when i was in high school i use to take my 66 L79 327 over 7500 before i shifted, never broke the first part.
</font>

I'll bet you broke the second and third part though... right?


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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo is on the way)

Maintenance since I bought it:
Bosch Platinum Plugs, wires, cap + rotor, Radiator, Water Pump, PCV, fluids and filters
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Old May 24, 2001 | 04:54 PM
  #6  
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From: Meridian,Idaho,USA
Thanks for feedback. I should have said that the factory TPI setup has been modified to the limit. Runners, plenum and manifold have been ported and matched to the ported heads. The MAF has both screens and heat sink taken out. The stock TB has a Jet airfoil as well. So the system is flowing quite a bit better than stock. I guess what everyone is telling me, I should be able to tell when the engine starts wheezing well before I can do any damage. Is that the concensus?
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Old May 24, 2001 | 05:56 PM
  #7  
bottledpower's Avatar
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From: Illinois
Car: 85 IROC
Transmission: 700 r4
drive it like ya stole it. if it breaks it wasnt built right, or a part was defective (thats my excuse anyway). your going to have to hold it down until the power starts to drop off if you dont know anything about the engine components. ive never had an engine blow from maxing its rpms, just dont keep pushing it. once you find the top set your shift a couple hundred before it.

edit: ive taken my engine to 6800, i shift at 6000 and i will probably need a neck brace in the later years of my life

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85 IROC 350 11:1keith blacks,.555lift erson roller cam,1.5 crane roller rockers,edelbrock intake,holley 4150 750dbl pumper, nitrous oxide,full length heddman headers,true dual exhaust, 11"stall converter, 700R4, 3.73 locker

[This message has been edited by bottledpower (edited May 24, 2001).]
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