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150,000 miles what sould i do

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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 11:11 PM
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chrisandkristin's Avatar
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From: henderson NV USA
150,000 miles what sould i do

bought my car about 3 months ago ....and it has 150,000 miles on it the guy i bought it from told me he changes the oil every 2500 miles ..my question is sould i do a major tune up ..and if so what is a major tune up or should i do a rebuild
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 11:33 PM
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Vader's Avatar
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C&K,

I'll apologize in advance to all that have read through this before, but....

With any newly acquired vehicle, it may be impossible to know how it was treated in its former life. Unless you have copies of all the maintenance records, you really don't know how the vehicle was maintained. The seller might have said that he/she "always" changed the oil, and that it was "just tuned up" or "just had brakes", but what was included with the tuneup, and exactly when were the brakes replaced? It's easy to forget dates and mileage, and that tuneup that was "just done" might have been almost a year ago. Because of this, you need to treat any newly acquired vehicle like no service has been done. Take a look at everything. That "tuneup" might have been spark plugs and a spray can of carburetor cleaner - hardly a tuneup by accepted definition. That "brake job" might heave been front pads, with no regard for calipers, wheel bearings, brake cables, and the master cylinder. A "rebuilt transmission" might have been a new servo and fluid. Unless you have a hard copy of the repair records, don't presume the previous owner had any idea of what has been done. If you have repair records, you are one of the fortunate few. Most of us get just what we see, and nothing extra. Sometimes we get even less.

Unless there is some obvious glaring problem, it will be beneficial to first perform the routine service that should have been done for a vehicle of that age and mileage. For a small investment in parts and supplies, and some of your time, you can do some meaningful work and learn something about the mass of metal that you will trust with your life.

Spend a little money and a little more time in, around, and under the vehicle to learn its secrets. Start with a thorough inspection and routine tune up service. After this, many of the little problems you are experiencing may be gone, and any other problems you may encounter will be easier to diagnose since many of the questions and variables will be eliminated.

Start from the top. All fluids, filters, routine service, ignition components, adjustments, etc. Everything from the differential oil to the front wheel bearing repack should be done. Engine and transmission oils and filters ($40), differential oil and additive ($15), coolant ($15), fuel and air filters ($10), PCV valve (AC only!) EVAP filter (if equipped), vacuum hoses, compression or cylinder leakage test, etc. Continue through the ignition system (NOT just spark plugs), and then the control system and adjustments, like IAC, TPS, timing, oxygen sensor, etc. Once it's running right, continue with brakes, wheel bearings, steering and suspension, belts and hoses, exhaust, and body lubrication/adjustments.

After you've performed all the required routine maintenance, you can assume that everything should be normal, then attack those things that are not. One of these steps should get you closer to solving any other problems down the road, and would cost you a total of less than $200 if you do the work yourself.

TUNE UP SERVICE

Perform a basic tune up and general lubrication. Chances are that even if these services were done, they weren't done completely. The factory owner's manual outlines the services necessary at a given mileage or age. If you were lucky, you got an owner's manual with your car. If you were even more fortunate, you have a factory service manual for your vehicle. This goes beyond the outline found in the owner's manual and into detail about the steps to be performed for routine service. It will also become invaluable for troubleshooting and repair of nearly anything you might encounter while you own the vehicle.

Start with a basic, thorough tune up service. It's not just changing the oil. This is a generic outline of GM recommended service procedures and intervals. Verify the correct intervals and procedures with your owner's or shop manual.



A basic tune-up MUST include:
* Cooling system inspection;
* Clean or replace spark plugs;
* Ignition wire testing;
* Distributor cap/rotor (if you don't have the OptiSpark);
* PCV valve cleaning or replacement;
* Air filter;
* Cleaning the IAC;
* Check Throttle Position Sensor voltage and adjust as necessary.
* Check/adjust minimum air rate;
* Check/adjust timing;
* Code scan;

If you have a fuel injected engine, there are a few more steps that must be performed to ensure correct fuel system performance.

The proper steps in fuel injector system service are:
* Check fuel pump operating pressure and volume.
* Test pressure regulator for operation and leakage.
* Flush entire fuel rail and upper fuel injector screens to include pressure regulator.
* Clean fuel injectors.(* if necessary)
* Decarbon engine assembly.
* Relearn onboard computer.

That should give you something to do tomorrow.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited June 05, 2001).]
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 11:35 PM
  #3  
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
What year is it? I got a 92 RS w/170K miles. I bought it w/162K on it last year. Is yours running bad, burning oil, or loosing oil. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Mine looses no oil at all. I did a cheap tune up, plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. It runs great. Only a little better than it did when I bought it, but better, no doubt. A rebuild is only needed if it's needed. Don't assume that a high milage engine is toast.

I also have a 94 S10 w/4.3L V6 5spd. It's got 185K miles and same thing, no oil burning or leaking. Why would I mess with it? If you want you can do a cylinder leak down test, or a compression test. These are good ways to see if an engine needs a rebuild, even if it doesn't burn/leak oil.

------------------
92 RS w/t-tops 305 TBI Auto.
170K miles and don't burn a drop o'oil
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