I have a 90 with the serpintine and one piece brackets. I need to remove my A/C compressor, smog pump and bracket, but then I need an idler pully to make the belt work right. I thought about using this pully from Zoops (see pic), called them up and ask the price. $125!!!! for one pully!?! Any one have any idea of an idler pully that will work or be modified to suit my needs? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Im fairly sure you can remove bolth and re route the belt w/o an idler pully, you just need a smaller belt. I wished my ac worked i would never touch it. Check the tech section on this site I beleive there was a article on this.
SSC

 

I removed my AC and smog pump from my 86 LG4 and each had it's own belt. I didn't have to buy anything. Just removed the stuff.

 

DOH! Ya think ?!

He has a serpentine system!

350CamaroRS... you'er gonna have to get some sort of idler puller on there, because that pulley is what keeps your belt tighened. Maybe try to fabricate some sort of bracket in order to use the stock idle pulley assembly ?




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92 Z28 5.7
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Trick Flow 23° heads, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam, Accel intake base + ported TPI,
TES headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition, #24 SVO injectors, 1LE aluminum driveshaft.

Click here to see pics of my car !

 

http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/camaro350/fbengcom1

http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/camaro350/fbengcom2

This 'home-made' setup is composed of an idler off an 88 up cam/fb with a v6, an alternator braket off a late 70's chevy (to bridge the bolt holes in where the a/c compressor mounts, I drilled a hole in the center to mount the idler) a stack of washers to align the pully (A bushing could be sub'd afterwards since the washers look ghetto... I never got around to it though...) and a bolt (I think 5/8", I know I used an SAE bolt though... The metric bolt from the v6 is too short. I also ground the big aluminum bracket to make it look a little better. Reroute the belt after removing the smog and use twine to mock up the length (With someone holding a breaker bar on the tensioner, knot it) and hopefully the parts store will give you the right length first shot.

An easier ($$$) way is to get the 1LE a/c delete idler which bolts right into the a/c compresser area.

Sorry for the huge-*** pics, I'll make them a url instead of popping up and spreading the screen 2-fold...

Ohh by the way, to really clean it up, remove the condenser and all the lines. Remove the entire evaporator/blower motor assembly and score a replacement out of an older cam/fb w/o air (They're metal, not plastic) Also be sure to get the blower motor or at least the 'sqirrel cage' fan as it is not as wide as the a/c one, but will bolt onto your original blower motor. Also the resistor pack on the older one is smaller and rectangular (There was less fan speeds) so to fit yours into there, you'll need to grind it triangular, but it will fit in and free up alot of room! Spark plugs could never be easier from top or bottom!

With some modifications, the evap core would make an excellent low-buck oil cooler.

[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited June 22, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited June 22, 2001).]

 

If you can't find a blower motor housing off a Camaro/Firbird, I mid 80's S-10 housing will work. You just need to drill a few different holes. That's what I did, I found the s-10 housing and blower motor at a swap meet for a $1. I love swap meets!

 

Thanks for the heads up guys. I'll let you all know what I come up with.