HELP! Quick questions to avoid major problems!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: California
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
HELP! Quick questions to avoid major problems!
I have a ‘88 Camaro Convertible SC with the 305 TBI code “E”. I am sorry for the long post, but I am moving to AZ and want to make sure the car can make the trip after pretty much being stored for three years. There are a few things up with it that I need some help with:
1) I placed a 14” K&N open air filter, but did not rehook all the little connectors back up to it that were originally on the air filter housing. How bad is that? I covered the holes back up with pieces made for it from Kragen, but have had one very reliable source tell me its bad too run my car that way, and one very reliable source tell me it only matters if I am worrying about passing smog. I am moving to AZ from Cali, so smog is the last thing on my mind.
2) I have MAJOR rubbing on my front tires. Apparently the guy who owned the car before me put on the 245/50/16’s that are on the IROC’s. What can I do to fix the rubbing? It is wearing a hole in the wall where the tire rubs and it wears down these tires, QUICK! I just paid 500 bucks to have them replaced.
3) I have an MSD 6al box that I want to hook up. Do I need to change the computer first?
4) I was told by Big O tires that my back brakes are completely shot running metal to metal everything’s bad (but isn’t that what there supposed to tell you?) and that my front is about gone. If I were to COMPLETELY replace everything on the braking system, what would you guys suggest? Master cylinder and everything and what am I looking at cost. My ASE buddy will do the work for me, just want to see the best resource for long lasting stopping power is. I plan on building the car up so any ideas are very appreciated?
5) In third gear the car is driving at 4500 RPM’s at 58-60 MPH is this normal? Also when I rev it automatically goes red line on me and sometimes take a couple of seconds to break through. Fourth gear doesn’t seem near as strong as it was when I bought it 6 years ago. Like I said it has been in storage, so hard to recall.
6) Oil gauge. It SOMETIMES works. It reads every once in awhile, but most of the time it doesn’t. I know the oil flow is there otherwise the car should have seized long ago. What should I do to try to fix it?
7) Radio pulls too much juice. As well I can either have the radio on or my headlights but not both at the same time! Really weird. I pulled it out until I can get some advice.
8) Should I convert to R134 or just refill the R12? And is there anyone out there that added a second fan to “push” more air through the cabin? The fan at HIGH is weak, at best. My buddies Silverado with blast you back in the chair. Any suggestions?
9) Ok I think this is the final question. When flooring it I get MAJOR hop? Kind of like the braking questions I want to completely replace the suspension move up to Spohn and what have you any ideas on parts and what should be replaced? I am interested in making it a tight ride, so any and all suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks guys I really appreciate it. Also if you can think of some quick Horsepower adds, that are cheap enough for me to add BEFORE I leave? Don’t want to crack into the engine just yet. Thanks guys,
James
88 Convertible SC
1) I placed a 14” K&N open air filter, but did not rehook all the little connectors back up to it that were originally on the air filter housing. How bad is that? I covered the holes back up with pieces made for it from Kragen, but have had one very reliable source tell me its bad too run my car that way, and one very reliable source tell me it only matters if I am worrying about passing smog. I am moving to AZ from Cali, so smog is the last thing on my mind.
2) I have MAJOR rubbing on my front tires. Apparently the guy who owned the car before me put on the 245/50/16’s that are on the IROC’s. What can I do to fix the rubbing? It is wearing a hole in the wall where the tire rubs and it wears down these tires, QUICK! I just paid 500 bucks to have them replaced.
3) I have an MSD 6al box that I want to hook up. Do I need to change the computer first?
4) I was told by Big O tires that my back brakes are completely shot running metal to metal everything’s bad (but isn’t that what there supposed to tell you?) and that my front is about gone. If I were to COMPLETELY replace everything on the braking system, what would you guys suggest? Master cylinder and everything and what am I looking at cost. My ASE buddy will do the work for me, just want to see the best resource for long lasting stopping power is. I plan on building the car up so any ideas are very appreciated?
5) In third gear the car is driving at 4500 RPM’s at 58-60 MPH is this normal? Also when I rev it automatically goes red line on me and sometimes take a couple of seconds to break through. Fourth gear doesn’t seem near as strong as it was when I bought it 6 years ago. Like I said it has been in storage, so hard to recall.
6) Oil gauge. It SOMETIMES works. It reads every once in awhile, but most of the time it doesn’t. I know the oil flow is there otherwise the car should have seized long ago. What should I do to try to fix it?
7) Radio pulls too much juice. As well I can either have the radio on or my headlights but not both at the same time! Really weird. I pulled it out until I can get some advice.
8) Should I convert to R134 or just refill the R12? And is there anyone out there that added a second fan to “push” more air through the cabin? The fan at HIGH is weak, at best. My buddies Silverado with blast you back in the chair. Any suggestions?
9) Ok I think this is the final question. When flooring it I get MAJOR hop? Kind of like the braking questions I want to completely replace the suspension move up to Spohn and what have you any ideas on parts and what should be replaced? I am interested in making it a tight ride, so any and all suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks guys I really appreciate it. Also if you can think of some quick Horsepower adds, that are cheap enough for me to add BEFORE I leave? Don’t want to crack into the engine just yet. Thanks guys,
James
88 Convertible SC
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I'll try a few of them for ya...
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jstcrzyengh:
[B]I have a ‘88 Camaro Convertible SC with the 305 TBI code “E”. I am sorry for the long post, but I am moving to AZ and want to make sure the car can make the trip after pretty much being stored for three years. There are a few things up with it that I need some help with:
1) I placed a 14” K&N open air filter, but did not rehook all the little connectors back up to it that were originally on the air filter housing. How bad is that? I covered the holes back up with pieces made for it from Kragen, but have had one very reliable source tell me its bad too run my car that way, and one very reliable source tell me it only matters if I am worrying about passing smog. I am moving to AZ from Cali, so smog is the last thing on my mind.
Can't help here, other than to tell ya I've heard that Az emissions is pretty tough now on the sniffer, not sure about visual.
2) I have MAJOR rubbing on my front tires. Apparently the guy who owned the car before me put on the 245/50/16’s that are on the IROC’s. What can I do to fix the rubbing? It is wearing a hole in the wall where the tire rubs and it wears down these tires, QUICK! I just paid 500 bucks to have them replaced.
Inside on the tie rod ends? Or outside on the fenderwells?
3) I have an MSD 6al box that I want to hook up. Do I need to change the computer first?
No.
4) I was told by Big O tires that my back brakes are completely shot running metal to metal everything’s bad (but isn’t that what there supposed to tell you?) and that my front is about gone. If I were to COMPLETELY replace everything on the braking system, what would you guys suggest? Master cylinder and everything and what am I looking at cost. My ASE buddy will do the work for me, just want to see the best resource for long lasting stopping power is. I plan on building the car up so any ideas are very appreciated?
Well, pulling the rear drums is a hassle, but not difficult...if they're metal to metal, the drums will have to be turned or replaced.
On the front, you can get your head in there and see the pad thickness, as well as the condition of the rotor. Inspect both for wear.
Regardless, unless there's a problem with the M/C, just do the pads,rotors, drums and shoes. No need to fix it unless it's not working correctly.
5) In third gear the car is driving at 4500 RPM’s at 58-60 MPH is this normal?
No. I'd guess your tach is way off, or you're not really in Drive (in the tranny). Best to have this checked out. Could be a simple linkage adjustment, or....($$).
Also when I rev it automatically goes red line on me and sometimes take a couple of seconds to break through. Fourth gear doesn’t seem near as strong as it was when I bought it 6 years ago. Like I said it has been in storage, so hard to recall.
After this question, is this a 5spd? If so, the rpms above you mentioned, may be correct, pease clarify.
6) Oil gauge. It SOMETIMES works. It reads every once in awhile, but most of the time it doesn’t. I know the oil flow is there otherwise the car should have seized long ago. What should I do to try to fix it?
Have the oil pressure verified with a mechanical gauge, if okay, suspect the sending unit.
7) Radio pulls too much juice. As well I can either have the radio on or my headlights but not both at the same time! Really weird. I pulled it out until I can get some advice.
Big amp? Could be the problem, or really weak alternator. Don't discount poor ground and positive connections going to and from the battery.
8) Should I convert to R134 or just refill the R12? And is there anyone out there that added a second fan to “push” more air through the cabin? The fan at HIGH is weak, at best. My buddies Silverado with blast you back in the chair. Any suggestions?
If the A/C needs charging, cheapest way would be to convert to 134a, see the Tech Articles, I believe there's a "how to", or have the shop do it, pretty common these days.
re: The fan, might just need a new one, or it's possible the switch could be at fault. Do you have all the speeds on each 'click" of the switch? if so, then most likely the blower is just tired.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jstcrzyengh:
[B]I have a ‘88 Camaro Convertible SC with the 305 TBI code “E”. I am sorry for the long post, but I am moving to AZ and want to make sure the car can make the trip after pretty much being stored for three years. There are a few things up with it that I need some help with:
1) I placed a 14” K&N open air filter, but did not rehook all the little connectors back up to it that were originally on the air filter housing. How bad is that? I covered the holes back up with pieces made for it from Kragen, but have had one very reliable source tell me its bad too run my car that way, and one very reliable source tell me it only matters if I am worrying about passing smog. I am moving to AZ from Cali, so smog is the last thing on my mind.
Can't help here, other than to tell ya I've heard that Az emissions is pretty tough now on the sniffer, not sure about visual.
2) I have MAJOR rubbing on my front tires. Apparently the guy who owned the car before me put on the 245/50/16’s that are on the IROC’s. What can I do to fix the rubbing? It is wearing a hole in the wall where the tire rubs and it wears down these tires, QUICK! I just paid 500 bucks to have them replaced.
Inside on the tie rod ends? Or outside on the fenderwells?
3) I have an MSD 6al box that I want to hook up. Do I need to change the computer first?
No.
4) I was told by Big O tires that my back brakes are completely shot running metal to metal everything’s bad (but isn’t that what there supposed to tell you?) and that my front is about gone. If I were to COMPLETELY replace everything on the braking system, what would you guys suggest? Master cylinder and everything and what am I looking at cost. My ASE buddy will do the work for me, just want to see the best resource for long lasting stopping power is. I plan on building the car up so any ideas are very appreciated?
Well, pulling the rear drums is a hassle, but not difficult...if they're metal to metal, the drums will have to be turned or replaced.
On the front, you can get your head in there and see the pad thickness, as well as the condition of the rotor. Inspect both for wear.
Regardless, unless there's a problem with the M/C, just do the pads,rotors, drums and shoes. No need to fix it unless it's not working correctly.
5) In third gear the car is driving at 4500 RPM’s at 58-60 MPH is this normal?
No. I'd guess your tach is way off, or you're not really in Drive (in the tranny). Best to have this checked out. Could be a simple linkage adjustment, or....($$).
Also when I rev it automatically goes red line on me and sometimes take a couple of seconds to break through. Fourth gear doesn’t seem near as strong as it was when I bought it 6 years ago. Like I said it has been in storage, so hard to recall.
After this question, is this a 5spd? If so, the rpms above you mentioned, may be correct, pease clarify.
6) Oil gauge. It SOMETIMES works. It reads every once in awhile, but most of the time it doesn’t. I know the oil flow is there otherwise the car should have seized long ago. What should I do to try to fix it?
Have the oil pressure verified with a mechanical gauge, if okay, suspect the sending unit.
7) Radio pulls too much juice. As well I can either have the radio on or my headlights but not both at the same time! Really weird. I pulled it out until I can get some advice.
Big amp? Could be the problem, or really weak alternator. Don't discount poor ground and positive connections going to and from the battery.
8) Should I convert to R134 or just refill the R12? And is there anyone out there that added a second fan to “push” more air through the cabin? The fan at HIGH is weak, at best. My buddies Silverado with blast you back in the chair. Any suggestions?
If the A/C needs charging, cheapest way would be to convert to 134a, see the Tech Articles, I believe there's a "how to", or have the shop do it, pretty common these days.
re: The fan, might just need a new one, or it's possible the switch could be at fault. Do you have all the speeds on each 'click" of the switch? if so, then most likely the blower is just tired.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Re: #9, wheel hop, could be a few different things, most likely something is just worn out (shocks, etc), but take a look for the obvious, make sure nothing is dangling or broken underneath.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: California
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Hey 8mike9,
Thanks for responding.
1 ) “Can't help here, other than to tell ya I've heard that Az emissions is pretty tough now on the sniffer, not sure about visual.”
I am actually wondering more about if it is doing any damage internally to not have that little sensor and other connection hooked up. I kept everything in order to change it every two years when it is time to get the ol’ smog test. Or the governments way of decreasing power and your wallet!
2) “Inside on the tie rod ends? Or outside on the fenderwells? “
It’s on the fender walls. I couldn’t think of what to call them before (LONG workweek) you can hear it every time I make a turn. Doesn’t even need to be a dramatic turn. I am VERY careful now and really cuts down on taking off ramps on the freeway at any kind of speed other than 20 or less! Lol |People get p*ssed behind me. Can I just remove them or move them back somehow?
3) “No.”
Do I have to change the computer at all? After the open air and the Ignition? Hope not.
4) “Well, pulling the rear drums is a hassle, but not difficult...if they're metal to metal, the drums will have to be turned or replaced.
On the front, you can get your head in there and see the pad thickness, as well as the condition of the rotor. Inspect both for wear.
Regardless, unless there's a problem with the M/C, just do the pads,rotors, drums and shoes. No need to fix it unless it's not working correctly.”
The front pads are pretty down. They told me I need new rotors, but I think I could probably just get them turned. I was however also interested in any upgrade kits, to new brakes, bigger brakes, better looking brakes, I am pretty open. I would rather change the whole thing at once so the entire line is new, and I won’t have to worry about something lese breaking. The brakes have never been changed since I have owned (6 years) and I have only put 7500 miles on it. I doubt they have been changed since 88 though.
5) “No. I'd guess your tach is way off, or you're not really in Drive (in the tranny). Best to have this checked out. Could be a simple linkage adjustment, or....($$).”
I know its something to do with the tranny. I am not sure yet if I want to keep the 305TBI, it’s an awesome workhorse, or move up to a 97 LT1, I have a bead on. Any suggestions? But a new tranny would probably be in order, just wonder how much longer I have. How much and any suggestions on upgrades to the tranny? I want MPG as well as street performance.
6) “After this question, is this a 5spd? If so, the rpms above you mentioned, may be correct, please clarify. “
It’s a 3spd auto with overdrive. Second gear feels tight, third a little looser, but still feels good, and fourth feels really loose. Any thoughts? Maybe gears are going bad….?
7) “Have the oil pressure verified with a mechanical gauge, if okay, suspect the sending unit. “
Pretty sure it’s the sending unit, because the engine purrs, after its been warmed up. But funny thing it idles at 1500 RPM for about thirty minutes. Really feels like it has a ton of extra torque.
8) “Big amp? Could be the problem, or really weak alternator. Don't discount poor ground and positive connections going to and from the battery.”
No amp! Lol It was just a little 75 watt head with two 6x9 speakers. That’s it. I thought it was the wrong connections, but had my old stereo “pro” installed (Stolen, $2,000) and it was 140 watt and I couldn’t have it on more than 5 minutes with the car off without having problems starting my car.
9) “If the A/C needs charging, cheapest way would be to convert to 134a, see the Tech Articles, I believe there's a "how to", or have the shop do it, pretty common these days.
re: The fan, might just need a new one, or it's possible the switch could be at fault. Do you have all the speeds on each 'click" of the switch? if so, then most likely the blower is just tired. “
The fan is BRAND new. It changes at the different intervals but I guess it just doesn’t blow hard enough for me, so I was wondering if there was a way to add one and put it in tandem or inside somewhere. Unfortunately with these squirrel blade fans there is not a lot of torque hence not a lot of “push”. I would literally like to double the blowing power, but don’t know how to exactly go about it. As far as the AC I have seen conversion kits for 34 dollars at AutoZone, but thought it was some kind of gimmick and wouldn’t really last, any thoughts? It would be great to buy a couple of extra bottles and refill my car for 100 bucks! I was already quoted 320 to refill my R12, its bone dry.
Thanks for getting back to me and I await your and anyone else that wants to response.
Thanks, James
Thanks for responding.
1 ) “Can't help here, other than to tell ya I've heard that Az emissions is pretty tough now on the sniffer, not sure about visual.”
I am actually wondering more about if it is doing any damage internally to not have that little sensor and other connection hooked up. I kept everything in order to change it every two years when it is time to get the ol’ smog test. Or the governments way of decreasing power and your wallet!
2) “Inside on the tie rod ends? Or outside on the fenderwells? “
It’s on the fender walls. I couldn’t think of what to call them before (LONG workweek) you can hear it every time I make a turn. Doesn’t even need to be a dramatic turn. I am VERY careful now and really cuts down on taking off ramps on the freeway at any kind of speed other than 20 or less! Lol |People get p*ssed behind me. Can I just remove them or move them back somehow?
3) “No.”
Do I have to change the computer at all? After the open air and the Ignition? Hope not.
4) “Well, pulling the rear drums is a hassle, but not difficult...if they're metal to metal, the drums will have to be turned or replaced.
On the front, you can get your head in there and see the pad thickness, as well as the condition of the rotor. Inspect both for wear.
Regardless, unless there's a problem with the M/C, just do the pads,rotors, drums and shoes. No need to fix it unless it's not working correctly.”
The front pads are pretty down. They told me I need new rotors, but I think I could probably just get them turned. I was however also interested in any upgrade kits, to new brakes, bigger brakes, better looking brakes, I am pretty open. I would rather change the whole thing at once so the entire line is new, and I won’t have to worry about something lese breaking. The brakes have never been changed since I have owned (6 years) and I have only put 7500 miles on it. I doubt they have been changed since 88 though.
5) “No. I'd guess your tach is way off, or you're not really in Drive (in the tranny). Best to have this checked out. Could be a simple linkage adjustment, or....($$).”
I know its something to do with the tranny. I am not sure yet if I want to keep the 305TBI, it’s an awesome workhorse, or move up to a 97 LT1, I have a bead on. Any suggestions? But a new tranny would probably be in order, just wonder how much longer I have. How much and any suggestions on upgrades to the tranny? I want MPG as well as street performance.
6) “After this question, is this a 5spd? If so, the rpms above you mentioned, may be correct, please clarify. “
It’s a 3spd auto with overdrive. Second gear feels tight, third a little looser, but still feels good, and fourth feels really loose. Any thoughts? Maybe gears are going bad….?
7) “Have the oil pressure verified with a mechanical gauge, if okay, suspect the sending unit. “
Pretty sure it’s the sending unit, because the engine purrs, after its been warmed up. But funny thing it idles at 1500 RPM for about thirty minutes. Really feels like it has a ton of extra torque.
8) “Big amp? Could be the problem, or really weak alternator. Don't discount poor ground and positive connections going to and from the battery.”
No amp! Lol It was just a little 75 watt head with two 6x9 speakers. That’s it. I thought it was the wrong connections, but had my old stereo “pro” installed (Stolen, $2,000) and it was 140 watt and I couldn’t have it on more than 5 minutes with the car off without having problems starting my car.
9) “If the A/C needs charging, cheapest way would be to convert to 134a, see the Tech Articles, I believe there's a "how to", or have the shop do it, pretty common these days.
re: The fan, might just need a new one, or it's possible the switch could be at fault. Do you have all the speeds on each 'click" of the switch? if so, then most likely the blower is just tired. “
The fan is BRAND new. It changes at the different intervals but I guess it just doesn’t blow hard enough for me, so I was wondering if there was a way to add one and put it in tandem or inside somewhere. Unfortunately with these squirrel blade fans there is not a lot of torque hence not a lot of “push”. I would literally like to double the blowing power, but don’t know how to exactly go about it. As far as the AC I have seen conversion kits for 34 dollars at AutoZone, but thought it was some kind of gimmick and wouldn’t really last, any thoughts? It would be great to buy a couple of extra bottles and refill my car for 100 bucks! I was already quoted 320 to refill my R12, its bone dry.
Thanks for getting back to me and I await your and anyone else that wants to response.
Thanks, James
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
You can take a hammer and "massage" the inner fenderwells to make the tires not rub. Not the most elegant solution - but it works. And I'm gonna take a wild guess here and say that the cheapo plastic inner fenders cost much less than a new 245/50/16 tire anyway.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post