Okay, I went and took off the belt to the smog pump and figured it would shut down all the emmision junk. Well, the engine started to make whistling noises, so I put the belt back on and it quit. Then I decided to take the belt back off.WRONG MOVE. It made the whistling noise again, so I put the belt back on. It still made the noise. WHAT THE HECK. and when I took the belt off it stopped a lot of sounds I use to hear, so I thought since it still makes the noise, maybe I should take it off. Does anyone know what the noise is. Or do you think I should take all the emission junk off. If I take all the emission junk off will it change the way it runs? Or should I leave it on. Someone said that it helps gas mileage. Is that true? What should I do? The whistling noise is pretty loud, and there is two things whistling. Don't have a clue what they are.
305-LG4
holley 600 double PP
305-LG4
holley 600 double PP
Senior Member
If you dont need to go through the emissions then take it off. I doubt you will see any MPG change I didnt personally. It may help your car run a little cooler and may add a tiny bit of lost power nothing you will notice. It will lower the weight a little that smog pump weighs a lot. But yea ditch it no need for it you will just destroy the ozone thats all.
Senior Member
Ditto, ditch the pump. That whistling sound might just be the check valves on your headers/exhaust manifolds. Ditch all the crap related to the AIR system and get a good pair of 1/2" screw in pipe caps at Home Depot or the equivalent to cap the AIR fittings on the headers. That should take care of all your whistling. Ditch the cat too since it will probably clog easier without the system. Just rig it so you can slap it on come emissions time and take it right off after. You'll get some weight reduction from losing the pump as well as a little hp back from parasitic loss. Don't run out and get wheelie bars or anything but you can expect to get slightly (very slightly) better gas mileage. You probably won't notice too much of a difference, but it's there, and it adds up. I thought removing mine was actually quite fun 
... until one of my check valves was stuck on the passenger side header 
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"Though I cruise through the valley of Rice I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me."
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1985 IROC-Z w/T-tops, 305 out and 350 L98 TPI engine in, Hooker Super Comp Headers, 3" Hooker Super Comp Cat-Back, 3" CatCo Cat, Rebuilt TH700R4 with Shift kit, 3.73 Richmond gears, Auburn differential, Accell SuperCoil, Accell 8mm racing wires, BBK AFPR, Homemade Ram-Air (thanks to Andris Skulte), MAF screens removed, Dropped A/C, Dropped A.I.R, TB coolant bypass, Hurst Dual-Gate Shifter, SLP Air Foil, K&N filters, Holley performance fuel pump, Spohn Subframe Connectors, Re-located Spohn Lower Control arms, and more to come.
... until one of my check valves was stuck on the passenger side header ------------------
"Though I cruise through the valley of Rice I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me."
-----
1985 IROC-Z w/T-tops, 305 out and 350 L98 TPI engine in, Hooker Super Comp Headers, 3" Hooker Super Comp Cat-Back, 3" CatCo Cat, Rebuilt TH700R4 with Shift kit, 3.73 Richmond gears, Auburn differential, Accell SuperCoil, Accell 8mm racing wires, BBK AFPR, Homemade Ram-Air (thanks to Andris Skulte), MAF screens removed, Dropped A/C, Dropped A.I.R, TB coolant bypass, Hurst Dual-Gate Shifter, SLP Air Foil, K&N filters, Holley performance fuel pump, Spohn Subframe Connectors, Re-located Spohn Lower Control arms, and more to come.