Hi folks....

The dog days of summer are here and I see cooling topics are popping up left and right.
I'd like to get a topic going not only to get advice on my cooling issues but to help others who are having cooling problems as well.

For starters I have a 91 RS Vert with a stock 305 TBI and a single fan.

Currently we are running in the 220° range in city/traffic condition with a outside temp of 103° and the A/C blowing bull blast. When the system is operating properly we rarely get above the 220 mark.

When we get on the highway we are around the 180° range in the same conditions.

So all in all we are pretty happy with our current cooling set-up.
BUT!!! I want to get it better if at all possible.

Here is the current cooling system set-up we are running.

3 Row Radiator, I think 170° stat, new water pump, new fan motor, new stock fan switch, new fan relay switch, new hoses, using Havoline anti-freeze and waterwetter.
Mix is 1 gallon Havoline added the bottle of water wetter and the rest is water.

All above cooling mods have been done less than a year ago.

This weekend I'm going a step further on my quest to a cooler running car.
I've ordered a new fan switch from autozone which is made by Hypertech for $38.99, I'm 99% sure this is the same fan switch that is Jegs part # 533-4026 which sells for $42.99.
This switch comes on @ 176° and turns off @ 166°.

I also bought a 160° Thermostat of which I plan to drill the 4 small holes into it as mentioned in prior posts and tech articles.

What my main question is.......

When I install this fanswitch into the head do I use teflon tape or not?
It's my understanding that the switch makes ground through the threads. Thus wrapping the switch in teflon tape would not make the ground and therefore not make the fan operate.

My concern is leaking!

If I don't use the tape then won't the thing leak???żżżżż

Second question.....

I've read in another post that you need the performance computer chip in order for the fan switch to function properly.
This leads me to believe that one won't work without the other.
How true is this???

Either way....
The fanswitch is going in this weekend. And I'll post my results when I get it done.
As for the 160° stat.... I like cold weather and I'm not worried about winter. If it get's too cold, I'll take the ten minutes and $5 to swap out for a warmer stat in the winter time.


I'd like to hear all opinions, thoughts, experiences, and tech advice from those who have gone before me.
And take a moment to let us know your "Cooling Mods".

It can only help each and everyone of us who are overheating.

Thanks in advance!

 

Yes use teflon tape to avoid leaks. The fit is plenty tight that the threads will cut through enough of the tape to ground the switch just fine.

It's not. The fan switch is completely independant of the ECM. You will need a performance chip to take advantage of the cooler running though. Some people say (I don't know how true it is) that the stock PROM won't go into normal warm operation at low temps like 160*. Aftermarket PROMs designed for the lower temps reduce the temperature limits for those functions.

I used to run a 160* stat and the Hypertech 160* fan switch, but I switched several months ago to a 180* stat and 195* fan switch. With the warmer stat and switch I noticed absolutely no loss of power, but the engine ran slightly smoother and fuel economy made a very noticable jump. Hypertech recommends the 160* stat and switch for their PROM, but JET (I have their stage 2 PROM) recommends the 180/195. I think dry manifold intakes like TPI cars work better with the 160's while wet manifolds like our TBI's work better slightly warmer.

By the way, 220* is completely normal when in traffic, that's the stock fan switch temp, and the 180* on the freeway is dead on for the stock 180* stat. Sounds to me like you already have a perfectly capable cooling system.

 

I didn't use teflon tape and my switch doesn't leak, just put some threadlocker on the bottom threads. I also spliced a wire into the wire going into the switch, and connected it to a toggle switch inside the car along with a ground wire, so I can turn on my fan whenever I want. This way the fan comes on at stock temperature, and I can also override it and manually control the fan from inside the car. Easy and neat mod.

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension

 

Thanks for both of the tips and info!

I remember reading about the gas milage gains on here before concerning the higher stats and fan switches.

That is a key factor in our situation since it's all stock and a daily driver.

But, we live out in the desert and the days get very hot and the roads are very long with no one in site for miles. So keeping the cooling system in check is also a major concern. I'd rather burn the fuel than get stuck out in the desert with an overheated engine.

I do plan some minor mods in the future. Like exhaust, headers and a open element air filter. And after I get those on I'd like to get a chip from fastchip. This way they know what I have on the car and can make a chip from that. Or at least that's where my knowledge level is at with the chips.

I've heard that the headers will make things a tad warmer, so I'm trying to plan ahead and get the car running a bit cooler than average to make up for the heat from the headers.

I think I'm on the right track here???????