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Help..still no oil pressure even after a new sender

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Old Aug 18, 2001 | 06:41 PM
  #1  
88 GTA Notchback's Avatar
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From: Naples, FL, US
Help..still no oil pressure even after a new sender

I replaced the sending unit on my car and changed the oil, filter, etc. I still have the same damn problem: after running for about 5 minutes the oil pressure drops to 0. Is their anything else I can check before I replace the oil pump.
Thanks,, Jacob

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88 GTA Notchback
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Old Aug 18, 2001 | 06:52 PM
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Graeme'sFirebird's Avatar
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
Stupid answer but check electrical connections going all the way to the gauge.. i had one where it rubbed against some metal and cut in half, occasionally theyd touch and my gauge would work then a little bump and back down to 0

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Old Aug 18, 2001 | 07:04 PM
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88,

I would suggest verifying the pressure with a separate mechanical pressure gauge. You can tap the same port used for the sender for the temporary connection.

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Old Aug 18, 2001 | 07:14 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
I agree with Vader to temporarily connect a mechanical gauge to verify proper oil pump/pressure operation. Then after internals components are given the OK (better to be safe than sorry) then move on to faulty wiring and possible instrument cluster faults(gauges).

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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4
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Old Aug 18, 2001 | 07:14 PM
  #5  
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From: Lakeland, Florida
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Could the oil pressure relief valve be sticking???
It could have gotten some junk in there after the oil change.

Just a thought.


[This message has been edited by sunbitz (edited August 18, 2001).]
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Old Aug 18, 2001 | 07:38 PM
  #6  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by sunbitz:
Could the oil pressure relief valve be sticking???
It could have gotten some junk in there after the oil change.

Just a thought.
</font>
You're jumping ahead a few chapters, but it's a good possibility. The real oil presure gauge should tell the story.

When teh gauge is connected, check pressure at ldle, and if / when it falls off, bring up the engine RPMs just a bit to try to increase pressure.

Since we've already skipped to Chapter Three, it's also possible that the rear main is loose, a main bearing is excesively worn, the oil pump is loose, or the pickup screen is loose. It's also possible to have a worn or spun cam bearing. A worn bearing would allow too much oil to leak out, and a spun / slipped cam bearing could prevent oil from reaching the oil galleries for the lifters.

Just some more thoughts, none of which are good news if the oil pressure is truly low.

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Old Aug 19, 2001 | 09:44 PM
  #7  
88 GTA Notchback's Avatar
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From: Naples, FL, US
Thanks for the info Vader. I've lost count on the number of times you've saved my *** .

Thanks Dude!

------------------
88 GTA Notchback
A4 / 350
Stock
** New User Name**

Kill List:
95 Mustang GT |88 Mustang GT
94? Impala (real close)|97 Dodge Neon
86 Corvette |2000 Prowler
88 ASC GTA | And a few more Accords and Neon's.

And more Civic's then I can count. Why do they even bother?
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Old Aug 20, 2001 | 09:02 PM
  #8  
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From: Frederick, MD USA
Hey, what happens when you have a worn cam bearing? What are the symptoms? I have what sounds like noisy lifters..I it's counting knocks from it too. Can that make you go slower? Not the retarding from the false knocks, but the bearing going bad. Thanks alot

------------------
  • Red '88 IROC 305 TPI T-5 w/3.08
  • Accel 300+ Ignition
  • Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
  • AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
  • Dual Friction Stage III Centerforce Clutch
  • Energy Suspension Transmission Mount
  • Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
  • Gutted Airboxes
  • Hypertech Stage II PROM
  • Hypertech Airfoil
  • Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
  • Best Maryland (40 degrees) E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 mile MPH 93.91
  • Best Florida (80 degrees) E/T 14.88, 60' 2.163, 1/8th mile 9.540, 1/4 mile MPH 92.74
  • Best 60' 2.163(Florida)
  • TPiS AFPR set to 42psi using Accel Fuel Pressure Gauge (Installed after Maryland run)
  • Aluminum Driveshaft (Installed after Maryland run)

I am looking to buy Edelbrock T.E.S. headers with the y-pipe. I am also looking for a 3.42 - 3.55 posi disc rear. cheesy@fred.net is my e-mail, send a letter if you can help!
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Old Aug 21, 2001 | 10:08 PM
  #9  
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From: Frederick, MD USA
To the top!

------------------
  • Red '88 IROC 305 TPI T-5 w/3.08
  • Accel 300+ Ignition
  • Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
  • AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
  • Dual Friction Stage III Centerforce Clutch
  • Energy Suspension Transmission Mount
  • Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
  • Gutted Airboxes
  • Hypertech Stage II PROM
  • Hypertech Airfoil
  • Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
  • Best Maryland (40 degrees) E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 mile MPH 93.91
  • Best Florida (80 degrees) E/T 14.88, 60' 2.163, 1/8th mile 9.540, 1/4 mile MPH 92.74
  • Best 60' 2.163(Florida)
  • TPiS AFPR set to 42psi using Accel Fuel Pressure Gauge (Installed after Maryland run)
  • Aluminum Driveshaft (Installed after Maryland run)

I am looking to buy Edelbrock T.E.S. headers with the y-pipe. I am also looking for a 3.42 - 3.55 posi disc rear. cheesy@fred.net is my e-mail, send a letter if you can help!
Reply
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