ever since i've gotten my car, i've had problems with bolts sticking...and cracking bolt heads off...and rounding bolt heads. Granted, it's a '89 with 144,000 miles, but still! I've purchased new heads and an intake (mainly because i cracked an intake bolt off in the head, and haven't been able to get it out with any method i have though of), and now that i've got the drivers side exhaust manifold off, i've removed all head bolts but one. One bolt decided to be a pain...a real pain...and wouldn't budge. so i tried heat. then a hammer to loosen it. then WD-40. then more head, hammer, penetrating oil...repeating the process, and the bolt won't budge. in fact, the thing is partially rounded off. plus, the passenger side exhaust manifold won't come off, no matter how hard i try, those bolts by the A/C box are impossible!

So, a few questions, if you don't mind (i am new to this, after all). Any ideas on how to get that bolt out? would it be worth it to put performance heads and intake on an engine with such high mileage? also, where can i get a good short block for fairly cheap (preferably new...but i'll settle for just about anything)

i'm in school, so money is a concern, mainly because i don't have that much of it, but i would to build myself a new engine...

i know there's a lot there, but any advice would be much appreciated.

 

One thing that may help is to replace and retorque several head bolts around the problem bolt. This will at least reduce some of the force on that bolt from the rest of the head around it being bowed. Other then that, a breaker bar, and several feet of pipe for additional leverage on the bar, I dont really have any other suggestions on getting it out. Id avoid hammering, though, dont want to totally destroy the head of the bolt. Another thing worthwile might be to get one of those sockets thats clearanced around the corners of the bolt so it only contacts the faces. Might help reduce the likelyhood of rounding.

For the exhaust man. bolts, get the breaker bar back out and turn till the bolt either breaks loose or breaks off. Not reusing the heads, anyhow, so either way you get the manifolds off

Id say if the engine didnt smoke or make mechanical noises then a headswap would be worthwile. If it showed obvious signs that it was on its way out, then another shortblock/rebuild would be in order.

 

I've got a set of tuned port 305 heads laying here if you want to replace those heads cheaply. I'm looking for $40 for the heads with stock valves and dual-coil valve springs, or $60 for the heads and a set of poly locks.

They have smaller valves but flow just as well as the 083 heads on your motor and will raise your compression slightly.

Let me know if this would help ya out at all. They were off my 88k mile LB9.

 

i just took the heads off my car and the only bolt i had a problem with was one of the trox bolt in the intake manifold. it rounded out completely and i wasnt able to get it out with easy outs. wjat i ended up doing is demeling the head of the bolt off, then after i removed the manifold i used a studpuller to remove the shaft of the bolt

 

get an air impact. I've never broke one off

 

thanks for all the advice guys. i was able to get it off after work today, finally, by hammering a 14mm 12 point socket onto it, and using a huge breaker bar. The engine doesn't leak much oil at all, just a little around the rear main seal. no problem-indicating noises either...so i'll assume it's allright for at least this season, may be next...until i do an engine swap