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Oxygen Sensor Removal

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Old Nov 9, 2001 | 05:18 PM
  #1  
Patrick007's Avatar
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From: New Fairfield, CT
Oxygen Sensor Removal

Okay i wanna put a new O2 sensor in cuz mine has gotta be beat.. i swear its the original lol. I have he special socket but the thing just will not move.. its not trying to strip itself but it is SOLID. I let it soak in PB Blaster as well. Any suggestions as to how to get this mother off?? Thanks boyz

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Old Nov 9, 2001 | 06:21 PM
  #2  
Bjase's Avatar
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From: World of Hurt, Va
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Mine was tight, too. I used a long extention so I could get a big breaker bar on it. You could also try running the car first, it may come out easier hot.

------------------
88 IROC with cobbled together (not by me)drivetrain, 86 (?) TPI unit on an '83 305,CE subframe connectors, Edelbrock strut tower brace, polygraphite bushings all around...it handles like a dream, but man is it hard to push!!
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Old Nov 9, 2001 | 07:44 PM
  #3  
Red Devil's Avatar
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Do it right after a nice long drive, spray lightly with PB and then remove. PITA but works.

------------------
"Question with boldness even the existence of a *** ; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson
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Old Nov 9, 2001 | 10:38 PM
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From: New Fairfield, CT
Is it possible to like crack the thing in there or for some terrible thing to happen and its permenantly stuck in there? Also, is it alright to remove it with the motor hot? I dont wanna gall threads or anything?

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Old Nov 9, 2001 | 11:55 PM
  #5  
breathment's Avatar
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From: Bedford, Tx
i had to put on a 2ft peice of PVC pipe on the end of a wrench, and was literaly standing on the engine pulling.

------------------
- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to Unkown CatBack, Ported Intake

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16
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Old Nov 10, 2001 | 11:12 AM
  #6  
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From: New Fairfield, CT
Sounds like this could be disaster if it breaks. So you think I should do with the motor hot? Wouldn't the sensor expand and make it more difficult? Thanks for help guys. I really dont wanna mess this us cuz its running nearly perfect cept for the O2 being so old.

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Old Nov 10, 2001 | 04:37 PM
  #7  
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From: Northern part of The Netherlands
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 (5.7 TPI)
Transmission: auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt L.S.
I just replaced mine some months ago,I soaked the sensor with WD-40 for about a week,it came out easy,with cold engine!
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Old Nov 10, 2001 | 04:49 PM
  #8  
82camaro's Avatar
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From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Heat is your friend. If all else fails, get the bung red hot with a torch and it will come right out.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro
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Old Nov 10, 2001 | 05:29 PM
  #9  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Patrick007:
Sounds like this could be disaster if it breaks. So you think I should do with the motor hot? Wouldn't the sensor expand and make it more difficult? Thanks for help guys. I really dont wanna mess this us cuz its running nearly perfect cept for the O2 being so old.

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
</font>
PG,

Yes, the sensor will expand when hot. However, so does the 'Y' pipe and the threaded bung. The metal will also be a bit softer from the heat, and galling should be the least of your concerns (at least it would be moving. The problem is that the sensor base is carbon fused to the bung, and heat can help a great deal. Of course, the penetrating oil will help, but only once the parts have started moving.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
If you want to beat the World, it might reach up and pull you down...
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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Old Nov 12, 2001 | 10:16 AM
  #10  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
On my original, I snapped off the back of the oxy sensor, so I just had the sensor's nut, and the piece left inside the pipe. Then, I used a short socket, along with a hammer. Apparently my deep socket and breaker bar wasn't concentrating all my power at the nut; and the hammer certainly helped.

You could also try tapping the thing loose every time you drive back into your garage.. a few solid smacks (on a breaker bar or large open-ended wrench) for a few days straight, combined with the heat from a freshly-shut-off motor, and the vibrations from your "next drive", would probably do it.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
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Old Nov 12, 2001 | 10:41 AM
  #11  
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From: Beaver,PA,USA
I did this earlier in the year and it was a disaster. I did the PB Blaster thing for weeks, WD40, hot, cold. In the end, I hosed up the threads (was it cross-thread when installed?) and had to tap the hole to a bigger diameter to even be able to get another sensor in there...

Do a search for the blow-by-blow on this forum...
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Old Nov 12, 2001 | 04:48 PM
  #12  
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From: Hotter'n Heck, Ar
I had to remove my original a few years ago and it was not fun. First, I sprayed it with PowerLube after I took it out for a few mile drive. I then unpluged it from the harness, broke the back of the sensor off and used an impact gun (not very powerfull) on it with a good 6-point socket. It took a while but it worked just fine.

Dale

------------------
1986 FireBird
2.8L MPFI
1/2 CAI
Gutted Cat, No muffler
Was 700-R4 --> Now T5
**** Great cars aren't bought, they're built ****

[This message has been edited by 86Chicken (edited November 12, 2001).]
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