Head swap questions
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 437
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From: Jacksonville ,Fl
Head swap questions
I am going to be swapping vortec heads onto my tpi l98 soon and I got a couple questions...
What are the torque specs for screw in studs w/ guide plates?
Is red RTV a good silicon sealant for the head bolts.?(anywhere else I should use it?)
Are there any sensors I should replace while I got the top end apart(that would be a PITA other wise)?
Should I pre oil (or may be use assembly lube) the rockers? Someone told be there is some spray I should use on them, but I couldn't find any?
Is there any proper 'break in' procedure, or do I just crank 'er up?
Thanks guys, I did a search but couldn't find any answers to these. Anything you think I may have missed would also be greatly appreciated. I am on a time budget so any tips and hints you got...
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-='89 Iroc-Z - 350 TPI =-
What are the torque specs for screw in studs w/ guide plates?
Is red RTV a good silicon sealant for the head bolts.?(anywhere else I should use it?)
Are there any sensors I should replace while I got the top end apart(that would be a PITA other wise)?
Should I pre oil (or may be use assembly lube) the rockers? Someone told be there is some spray I should use on them, but I couldn't find any?
Is there any proper 'break in' procedure, or do I just crank 'er up?
Thanks guys, I did a search but couldn't find any answers to these. Anything you think I may have missed would also be greatly appreciated. I am on a time budget so any tips and hints you got...
------------------
-='89 Iroc-Z - 350 TPI =-
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Studs should be torqued to around 60 ft-lbs.
DO NOT use silicone on head bolts, or on the rocker studs. Those parts move a great deal with heat/cool cycles, and the silicone will eventually tear and leak. Every single motor I have ever seen that was built with silicone in either of those places, had leaks. Use Loctite PST (Pipe Thread Sealer with Teflon) or the Permatex or GM equivalent, or Permatex 300 (brown gooey gunk). You want something that doesn't harden in both of those places.
You might want a thin smear of some kind of high-temp silicone around the water passages in both the head gaskets and the intake gaskets. Use Fel-Pro gaskets, with no sealer arond the cylinders, or around the intake ports.
Put in a new fan switch & CTS, maybe a new OPSU. Every heater and radiator hose. New tune-up parts (cap, rotor, plugs, wires) Other than those things, whatever things that are old and you think might be worn out and you have budget for, like EGR parts, heater control valve, O2 sensor, TPS, etc. Definitely have a good supply of vacuum line on hand.
Use white lithium grease on the rocker *****, tips, and push rod ends.
No particular break-in procedure.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
DO NOT use silicone on head bolts, or on the rocker studs. Those parts move a great deal with heat/cool cycles, and the silicone will eventually tear and leak. Every single motor I have ever seen that was built with silicone in either of those places, had leaks. Use Loctite PST (Pipe Thread Sealer with Teflon) or the Permatex or GM equivalent, or Permatex 300 (brown gooey gunk). You want something that doesn't harden in both of those places.
You might want a thin smear of some kind of high-temp silicone around the water passages in both the head gaskets and the intake gaskets. Use Fel-Pro gaskets, with no sealer arond the cylinders, or around the intake ports.
Put in a new fan switch & CTS, maybe a new OPSU. Every heater and radiator hose. New tune-up parts (cap, rotor, plugs, wires) Other than those things, whatever things that are old and you think might be worn out and you have budget for, like EGR parts, heater control valve, O2 sensor, TPS, etc. Definitely have a good supply of vacuum line on hand.
Use white lithium grease on the rocker *****, tips, and push rod ends.
No particular break-in procedure.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 437
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From: Jacksonville ,Fl
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Put in a new fan switch & CTS, maybe a new OPSU.
</font>
Put in a new fan switch & CTS, maybe a new OPSU.
</font>
[This message has been edited by BitchinCamaro (edited November 20, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
I love to talk dirty that way
It's a whole lot easier to get to while all that stuff is out of the way, if your car is one of those that has it under the distributor.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
I love to talk dirty that way
It's a whole lot easier to get to while all that stuff is out of the way, if your car is one of those that has it under the distributor.------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,522
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From: Indianapolis IN
I don't want to argue, but when you put the intake manifold back on and don't use silicone on the head and intake manifold it's going to leak everywhere and you're going to have a hell of a time getting the gasket to sit there while you put the manifold on. Just use a little around the bolt holes and intake ports and the front and back of the manifold and be sure to use thread sealer on the intake man. bolts because they don't go in blind on vortecs.
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'89 Red Formula 350- 350 .060 over w/ forged pistons, 232* @ .050 cam, Performer RPM, Holley 750 DP, Vortec 1.94 1.50, Accel Coil and dist, Hedman shorty headers, Dual Exhaust w/ cutouts, WS6 suspension, 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi Edelbrock LCA's & Track bar subframe connectors, 700R4, A&A snorkel scoop Eclipse Head Unit, Delco Bose Speakers, 2 12" Pioneer subs w/ 400 watt/chanel amp
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'89 Red Formula 350- 350 .060 over w/ forged pistons, 232* @ .050 cam, Performer RPM, Holley 750 DP, Vortec 1.94 1.50, Accel Coil and dist, Hedman shorty headers, Dual Exhaust w/ cutouts, WS6 suspension, 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi Edelbrock LCA's & Track bar subframe connectors, 700R4, A&A snorkel scoop Eclipse Head Unit, Delco Bose Speakers, 2 12" Pioneer subs w/ 400 watt/chanel amp
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 437
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From: Jacksonville ,Fl
Ok, couldn't decide who's opinion to go with on this one. My book says "use silicone" so I went to pep-boys and used their little chart to see what permatex recomended. I got "hylmar high perfromance formula gasket dressing and flange sealant."
ATO, little confues on what you mean here.
About the 'white lithium grease' isn't that a little thick to be using? Seems like it might clog stuff up.
Sorry to be so annoying with all these question, I just really want to make sure I got all my bases covered. Thanks RB83L69, and ATOMonkey.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ATOMonkey:
be sure to use thread sealer on the intake man. bolts because they don't go in blind on vortecs.
</font>
be sure to use thread sealer on the intake man. bolts because they don't go in blind on vortecs.
</font>
About the 'white lithium grease' isn't that a little thick to be using? Seems like it might clog stuff up.
Sorry to be so annoying with all these question, I just really want to make sure I got all my bases covered. Thanks RB83L69, and ATOMonkey.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: LONGVIEW TX . USA
The reason you use thread sealent on the intake bolts that go to the heads is the back side of those bolts are open to oil and the oil will work it's way up the threads and cause oil to puddle on the intake. I like to use the permatex thread sealent not silicone. Why use an inferior product when you can buy the correct one?
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