Rods and mains
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 56
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From: Hutch, KS
Car: Firebird 1987
Engine: 350 sbc chevy
Transmission: Turbo 350
Rods and mains
well i spun either a rod or a main bearing last week while racing a vette after that i heard it knockin i took my gf home and went back to my house so i didnt drive it long at all so it hopefully wouldnt get anything metal making its way through my engine so a question for you guys how hard is it and how long will it take after i pull my engine to replace those bearings? if anyone has any information it would be helpful its a 355 chevy sbc engine so its just your typical rebuild i just need some help posts will be appriciated greatly
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
To do it properly you'll need to pull the engine and completely disassemble it. If your dead bearings chewed up the crank and rods they'll need grinding and resizing.
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 24
From: Midwest
Car: '82 Recaro T/A, '71 Trans Am
Engine: 305CFI/455HO
Transmission: TH700R4/M22
Axle/Gears: 3.23/3.42
The question would be, why did it spin the bearing in the first place?
It its a rod then it may be out of round and needs to go to a machine shop for resizing. This is abviously going to require removing the heads, honing the cylinder and new piston rings on any that are removed from the block. I've also seen where morons use something sharp on the rod bearing surface to pound a piston/rod assembly out of the block and this nicks up the surface. This can also cause a spun bearing.
If all the machining is correct and you have good oil pressure, bearings shouldn't spin.
Its hard to say how long it will take without first seeing the damage. If you remove the oil pan and find the crankshaft and rod black and blue from heat you're looking at some major work a head of you.
It its a rod then it may be out of round and needs to go to a machine shop for resizing. This is abviously going to require removing the heads, honing the cylinder and new piston rings on any that are removed from the block. I've also seen where morons use something sharp on the rod bearing surface to pound a piston/rod assembly out of the block and this nicks up the surface. This can also cause a spun bearing.
If all the machining is correct and you have good oil pressure, bearings shouldn't spin.
Its hard to say how long it will take without first seeing the damage. If you remove the oil pan and find the crankshaft and rod black and blue from heat you're looking at some major work a head of you.
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Rod OR main, it needs to be completely disassembled and the crank needs to be magged and the line bore needs to be checked at the very least.The crank will most likely at least need a polish. While it's apart I would clean up the cylinder walls and put new rings in it too. If it needs an overbore no biggie, you can pick up cast oversize pistons for less than $80 if you're on a budget. Otherwise a set of Hypers can be had for a good price which is a good idea while it's apart. . Also if it's a rod you need to have at least the one with the spun bearing checked over. It could be stretched, stressed or the ends could be out of round. This would be the bare MINIMUM I would do.
Disassemble, Hot Tank, mag the crank and the block, check line hone, polish crank, mic and hone cylinders, possibly overbore. New rings and bearings.
Disassemble, Hot Tank, mag the crank and the block, check line hone, polish crank, mic and hone cylinders, possibly overbore. New rings and bearings.
Last edited by Dialed_In; Nov 24, 2005 at 04:00 PM.
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