My 89 Formula 350TPI cranks like none other, but won't start. To check for spark, I took out the #1 spark plug and tried turning it over and I saw no spark, is that even a reliable way to test for spark? Thanks for any help.

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1989 Formula 350

 

No its not


because the plug isn't grounded any more.

If you want an easy way to test, hook up a timing light, if the light flashes you're good, if not, that plug at least isn't getting juice.

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1985 Iroc-z, 14 second 305, new engine in the works.

 

or, pull an ignition wire, get a paper clip or something, or whatever to get a gap of about 1/4 inch from the spark plug terminal and a good ground, have someone crank the engine and make sure to hold the wire FAR from the terminal, as it will hurt if the spark jumps to ur skin iv seen sparks jump pretty far from bad wires, so be carfull

unless u have a timming light, then that is safer.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to Unkown CatBack, Ported Intake

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

 

Use a timing light definately, if your doing this stuff yourself it's a good investment. Also NAPA sells a tool that works just like a timing light, easy way to tell if your getting spark, only cost me a few bucks.
If your not getting spark at all have the ignition module tested, 95% of the time thats the culprit.

 

I always just laid the spark plug on a header primary or something for a ground. Always worked for me.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

I used the timing light method, and it didn't light at all. So where do I go from here?

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1989 Formula 350

 

well, bring in ur ignition modual and get it tested, OR buy a new one. and might as well replace the cap, rotor and maybe even wires, if u have a digital OHM meter u can test the resistance of the wires. and u also might wanna check the coil, im not sure of the steps as of now. but if u want i can email u a scan of them.

oh and i just thought of something, i would still do the pulling the wire and letting the terminal spark just in case the plugs are fouled. and make sure with the timing light to place the pick up as close to the coil as possible just in case there is a problem half way down the wire.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to Unkown CatBack, Ported Intake

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

 

I changed my coil today before I posted, my cap and rotor were changed about 300miles ago, plugs and wires 2000miles ago. Do I need to remove the distribuator to take out the ignition module and ignition pickup coil?

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1989 Formula 350

 

bump

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1989 Formula 350

 

no, u remove the cap, rotor, and some other peice , and i think it is under that, and u just unbolt it,

do u know what they look like?

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to Unkown CatBack, Ported Intake

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

 

Nope, ive never been further than the cap and rotor. Whats it look like?

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1989 Formula 350

 

You can't miss the ignition module, it's right under the distributor cap. It's small, black, has a couple different wires coming out of it, and is held down by two little bolts.
As for the pickup coil, it's around the distributor shaft. You would have to take the distributor out and disassemble it to replace the p/u coil, but there's a way to test it with a digital volt/ohm meter without removing it. I don't remember how, but I'm sure you could find it here on the board by doing a search.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

Here is an update. I took my ignition module to autozone today to have it tested and it checked out ok. I have a new ignition coil and a good ignition module, so it the only thing that can be bad is the ignition pickup coil right? To my understanding, the pickup coil connects to the ignition module by one green and one white wire. Are these the wires where I test the impedence of the pickup coil?

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1989 Formula 350

 

Yup, they're the only two wires the pickup coil has. If you want to know what numbers to expect and how to test it, Vader gave me some good advice a while back. Go here and see what he has to say:
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/003480.html

Are you positive you're not getting spark? I suppose other possibilities are bad wiring or ECM. Check your codes to make sure you've got a code 12 and nothing else. One more thing to check, have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor with the distributor cap off. Make sure it's turning.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

I tested the resistance between the green and white wires on the pickup coil and nothing came up. I take it that it needs to be changed. Thanks for your help guys, I hope this will fix my problem.

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1989 Formula 350

 

Originally posted by PLANT PROTECTION:

Does "nothing" mean infinite resistance, no resistance, or just no reading at all?

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

"Are you positive you're not getting spark? I suppose other possibilities are bad wiring or ECM"

I had a similar expierience when we stuck a carbed engine in a car that used to have a cross-fire injection. Turns out that it wouldn't spark unless the wiring harness was grounded to the engine (via the proper wires). We were cranking it over, grounded the wire, and it lit off. Check your ground wires, wiring harness and ones from engine to chasis. It won't run with out it.

 

This might seem obvious, but are you sure the +12V wire is plugged into your distributor cap.

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84 Camaro Z28
350 4 bolt main with 305 heads
Engle Cam 210/216 @ 0.050
K&N Filter
Weiand Action Plus intake
Accel Supercoil
Suspension Techniques lowering springs
Energy Suspension bushings

 

I guess I was checking the pickup coil wrong, cuz now I have a resistance of 836ohms across the terminals. I guess I will check for faulty wiring next......I really hate troubleshooting. BTW, i bought a pickup coil before I rechecked it, should I take it back or install it to eliminate possiable causes. Also, should I trust autozone's test of my ignition module or the quality of the advance auto ignition coil. I am kinda leaning toward a bad part because it ran strong going to work but nothing but cranking when I got off work.

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1989 Formula 350

[This message has been edited by PLANT PROTECTION (edited December 08, 2001).]

 

Make sure you check the pickup coil's resistance to ground. As for the module, I work at an auto parts store and test them a lot. There's a few I've seen that pass the test the first few times I try but then start to fail after that, after they get warmed up a little bit. But if you tried a new module and it didn't fix it either then it's probably not the module. Again, have you checked for codes? Make sure the rotor is turning on the shaft, and then start checking for frayed/cracked wires.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

Well it started today after work. Could it have been because it sat in the garage away from mosisture? I really didn't change any parts but the ignition coil. I cleaned all terminals and put a fresh layer of heatsink compound on the igniton coil. I doubt the problem is fixed, but rather intermittent. I can just hope for the best and it not leave me walking home again. Thanks for all your help guys especially ViciousZ, ya always came back to help out.

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1989 Formula 350

 

Good to hear it! But be careful because like you said, it may crap out again on you. If it does you might look at the computer. When mine went bad it'd do it intermittently. The car'd be fine for days, and then all of a sudden it'd die. Sometimes it'd restart immediately, sometimes not. A good way to check the computer is by testing for injector pulses. You need a noid light for that.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

I figured I should post this for the sake of people searching the board with this problem. It was the ignition pickup coil. After changing that I have had no problems with the car starting.