(sorry about the double post, this was originally part of a post I made in the TPI section by mistake, so I'm copying it here in hopes of getting a better response)

I got a timing gun (inductive) today and I'm gonna time this puppy, eventually. There are a couple sets of instruction on where the positive and negative clamps go; how do you guys SAFELY hook them up? I got the inductive thing on #1 wire.

Also, I saw I have a chalk mark already on my balancer. It is sitting on 0 right now, does the engine stop on #1 TDC every time it shuts down or is this a fluke? Does this mean I actually have ZERO degrees base? And why did my AutoXray tell me I was running 39.9 degrees spark advance? If I set base to b/t 6-8, won't this create a bad timing advance (like 45*-47*) or if I truly have 0* advance, doesn't that mean the ECM assumes I have the stock 6* so what I saw on the AX was really 33.9?

I don't know if it means anything or not, but my dis cap/#1 terminal is just left (looking at it from the nose of the car) of center..is this of any value to me?

Dazed And Confused..A Lil....
Eric

 

Where the engine stops rotating is irrelevant. It will generally stop in one of four places, affected by compression, valve spring loading, and random luck.

You scanning software is reporting overall timing advance with the EST active, not base timing. Changing the base timing will change the overall timing curve, but the ECM (and scanner) won't know any better since it presumes the base timing to be 5.98°. Since there is no crankshaft position sensor, there is no other way for the ECM to know the actual timing.

Your distributor cap position is really of no consequence, but it sounds like your's is still oriented in the factory position. The #1 terminal on the distributor leaves the factory in the LF corner position, just as you describe.

Connect the red power lead of your timing light to the battery positive, and the black to a ground or negative. Bypass the EST, start the engine, and check the timing.

 

Thank You Vader.