Every engine builder alive is guilty of producing a lemon even straight from GM and ford. Fact is no matter how good you are at engine building sometimes the brand name parts you put into it fail permature. Believe me I know that happens alot I use to make parts for the Big 3. That is a bad feedback but the guy has thousands more good ones.

I'm just giving the guy a suggestion I don't care if he paids $4000 for a short block rebuild thats just going to make a little over 500hp. I also showed him a add that had a engine for over $3500 that can take over 600hp. An if he does his research you can get forged parts from other companies besides summit and jegs they are very over priced!

Yeah you get what you pay for but you are also a Damn Fool if you buy the first deal you see!

 

waaaaay back in the beginning of this post crazy said he might put a blower on it later.if he is seriously going to do this,10.6/1 is way too much compresion to allow a blower to work efficently.
if you're gonna blow it,build it for forced induction!
that means 8.0-9.0 compression,bigger heads,a blower cam etc.
Eric B

 

You don't build a N/A motor, and then "maybe" put a blower on it. You either build a N/A motor, or you build a blower motor. The requirements are CONSIDERABLY different.

If a motor works well for one, it will be entirely unsuitable for the other.

If a motor is built for one of those configurations but is sufficiently compromised to be acceptable for the other, it will be a HUGE disappointment.

This build is going to end up being an easy $4000 motor. Personally I'd hate to see somebody spend that kind of money, cripple it for its intitial configuration because someday he thinks he "might" put a blower on it, and end up with something that will lose a race to a $1200 Target motor.

A motor with 8.something:1 compression and no blower, and a big cam, is a guaranteed slug. Just an all-around VERY BAD plan.

And then of course he said this:So draw your own conclusions.

 

yeah i forget where at but some post after that i was just like, oh ok nevermind because of what your stating. I was picturing in my mind that with just the change of a head gasket i could lower the compression. Don't mind me i have learned a lot so far tho because of all your help. And enough on the ebay talk. I've had enough. I'm still going to my machinest/buy this 2k eagle rotating assy. I'm not trusting some guy out in who knows building my motor. I know my machinest, i have seen his engines run, seen their work, heard feed back. It's throughout the whole town. So yea. Anyone like to help on a few of my last post?

 

I Purchased my rotating assembly from ebay from the seller gofaststuff. He is awesome to work with. I highley recommend him. I got my cast crank, I beams, speedpro pistons and bearings for 619 shipped. I havent had any problems with the assembley and its been about 2 years.

 

BTW it was Eagle Brand.

 

crazy, sounds like your thread has strayed a ways from which AFR heads to get eh?

Now your main question is a cam recommendation?
Keep in mind, when a cam shows a recommended RPM range, that's usually based on a 350 (at least for SBC's.) So with your 383, you can drop the rpm range down ~400RPM or so, it tames the cam a bit.

I think the 282 is about what you're looking for, rough idle, gobs of power, etc.

 

so usually 383's aren't taken real high? say 6500-7k? Since I'm going hydrollic roller I was going to get a nice High rev kit.

 

I have a set of 195 afrs fr sale with .100 longer manley severe duty valves and a freash valve job pm. me if interested.

 

I'm running the xe282hr cam, and it I like it. It's not going to rev to 7K, but has great power from around 3500-6000. HP peaked at 5900 with a set of dart sportsman 200cc heads. Since then I've added a set of 195 afr's and a rev kit, and it pulls better (or doesn't drop off as much) to 6300 or 6400. I've got 13" of vacuum at 800 rpm idle, nice choppy lope, power brakes work, and it drives great part throttle. It's in a 355, and the fuel injection helps some towards the driveability; I would nail down your bottom end and head setup and call a couple of cam companies and get their input for a cam.

 

Does this look right ? Cause that's some pretty nice power..