Mot-Header

This is the first time in a long time that i have posted a message here on this forum because i have been working two jobs to pay for my new engine mods. so here goes the questions. What is involved with a 350 cu/in engine that has been bored out 0.30 to update it to a 383 cu/in do i need to grind on the block ect. my block is a 1988 350 chevy with a one piece rear seal. Also i want to put in the entire rotating assy. new i need all the help i can get.

swerve-driver

Complete balanced and clearanced 383 kits are available everywhere. I bought mine from Competition Products. Nothing fancy, cast crank and stock style rods. The nice thing about it was that it fit into the block and no clearancing of the block was necessary.
I did had a problem with the connecting rod interfereing with the oil pan gasket, but replaced the gasket and trimmed it in the area where the previous one had interference and have not had a problem since.
I think the cost of the rotating assembly I bought was around $950, that is clearanced, balanced and shipped complete with crank, HB, bearings, rods, HE pistons and rings.
For the increase in performance, it was a small price to pay.
Also, if on a budget, I would start out with a clearly defined plan and stick to it until the job is complete. Scope creep can kill a project and you wind up with a bunch of expensive parts sitting on bench doing no one any good. My motor is not bomb proof and i certainly could have spent more on it, but it is assembled, running well and giving me no grief.
Best-
S-D

Mot-Header

I just went to Competition Products and there was no listings for that rotating assy got any suggestions

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

you can get a stroker crank from ohio crankshaft (and maybe a kit) for a pretty good price. Or summit, it's a 3.75" stroke crank with 350 mains (don't just get a 400 crank, otherwise you'll need to have the mains machined down...).
cap screw rods help avoid clearancing issues, as do a small base circle cam, but you shouldn't need either of those.
you can use 'normal' 350 chev rods, just make sure the pistons are 383 pistons, so the pin is in the right spot. best to buy all the parts at once from one place.
best way to find out where you'll need to grind is to build it, then use a .050" feeler gauge, and where you can slip that through, mark it with a sharpie or something. then remove your stuff, grind, and redo!

swerve-driver

Yes- Call them and tell them what you need. Their site only contains a fraction of what they offer and their catalog is a lot more complete. The "salesperson" I dealt with there was actually the one that ended up balanacing and clearancing my rotating assembly.
Of course, there are tons and tons of other shops out there. I'm not saying CP is the best out there, but I had a good experience with them.
Best-
S-D